Ordered and installed replacement, pretty simply. You just have to remove the screws, then re-attach the plastic wire connector. 
7/2015 – Sold the Madness GoPedal after installing the Unichip tune. It no longer worked, as the Unichip modifies the throttle, as well as other things.
Best MPG on >10 mile commute, in traffic 33.0 via Ultra-Gauge. 
HID’s? GET IN THERE!
Bright as Hell! Single error at startup, but some flickering, then sometimes they wouldn’t fire. Winter seemed to be worse.
These were a generic, Chinese knock-off brand, likely purchased through Alibaba.com. They said “Canbus Pro” on them, and the numbers never matched any cross referencing. The Eagle Eyes headlights changed the bulb socket from 9012, to H8/H9/H1. They ended up flickering, a bit. I adjusted the grounds, but didn’t help. The left ballast finally went out Jan 2017, so they were replaced with Xenon-Vision HID’s.
The Xenon-Vision HID’s are the real deal!
These are error free, and many have gotten great results, even in the extreme cold.
Once at the site, select Canbus 35W ballasts, and choose 9012. The 55W will be too hot, and may cause issues. These will work bright, and error-free. On checkout, use the code “dodge-dart” for a $20.00 discount. As of Jan 2017, mine were $80.00, shipped with the discount! Here is the link.
These work very well, and are quite simple. I got rid of the dedicated battery line and relay, and simply draws power from the stock headlights. No additional resistors were needed, and the build quality is top notch – a very rugged looking product.
Mine were the wrong bulbs, at first, due to the Eagle Eyes. They even sent me a replacement, and paid for the shipping! I really recommend these guys! Other great websites for HIDs are Diode Dynamics, Morimoto and Xenon Supply.
The best video I’ve seen, that explains HIDs and light temperature is here:
Here is a chart, cross referencing light color temperature and perceived lumens:
There is a great review on dodge-dart.org, by my friend, Matt “Cntrollerfanboy” here. He goes into detail, and the product really is good.
Next up: Exhaust! I spent a lot of time on youtube, annoying my wife with loud car videos. It seems like the 1.4 runs best without that muffler – deleted! That really was the way to go – my buddy told me that it kinda sounds like a Lambo now. It really growls! It was a little much in the cabin at first, but once I got used to it, now I love riding with the windows down so I can hear her purr. I used James Dean Muffler in the Chicagoland area – he was great!
First, he cut off my muffler so we could hear how it sounded, and I took it for a spin to check performance, sound & efficiency.
Gone:
After I drove around, he put her back up and started making the pipes. He used all stainless steel (I’m in Chicago) 2.5″ and it was cool to watch him make it on his bench and then start putting it on the car.
Here he has one side done, and is starting to build the “Y” piece.
Some welding action:
Done:
Next up: More Orange! I added LEDs inside the front grill, another set under the front lip, and a pair inside the front wheel wells – Now the underbody lighting goes all the way around – Ridiculousness Level 11! The best way to do this is by adding LED strips to the inside of the front bumper, and along the bottom portion, just in front of the FMIC, if you have one.
The wires can easily be routed to the battery, and then to a switch of your choice.
I installed an illuminated toggle switch for these suckers: (the first of many)
It looked much cooler, months later, after I removed the front crosshair, and added multicolor demon eyes:
Last night, I installed the GFB D+ – I ordered it from Australia and saved $30 – the bolts that shipped with it did not reach with the Forge BOV, which I suspected. No problem – a trip to Home Depot and $3 took care of that.
I had some Plasti Dip leftover, and I had been photoshopping the front grill/fascia black – I thought it would look ok, and boy did it ever! It turned out fabulous! I also added the EZ Lip on the front and sides. (Both the plasti dip and the EZ Lip were later removed / upgraded.)
I bought some red gap trim and used it in a few places. It came with adhesive, but I supplemented this with the epoxy on the ends and corners. I don’t know why, but I added the turbo sign to the glove box. I even bought a short, red usb cable to charge the phone.
As if I don’t stick out enough with this ride – I need more! Underbody LED lights…oh man, here we go!
The transmitter is wireless, so no need for another line through the firewall- everything on the box tucked under the hood can be changed remotely. The thing has about 18 patterns – in orange, of course!
At night (with the orange LED’s on)
During the daytime/evening, also with the orange LED’s on:
Closeup with the LED’s off:
I installed the K & N typhoon intake, which sounds pretty awesome, but I wasn’t seeing the gains I thought I would with it. It doesn’t really cool it enough. It is safer, living in Chicago, from the water – but who wants to be safe?
I want more power and more MPG’s! Here is the mod, although looking back at it, I may go with a true CAI, as this seems to be mostly a sound improvement. MPG barely changed, and the little it did go up was likely me learning the gearbox more efficiently.
