Next up: More Orange! I added LEDs inside the front grill, another set under the front lip, and a pair inside the front wheel wells – Now the underbody lighting goes all the way around – Ridiculousness Level 11! The best way to do this is by adding LED strips to the inside of the front bumper, and along the bottom portion, just in front of the FMIC, if you have one.
Next up was to knock out a few things, since I have to take apart the entire front end – with the Aero panels, it was a bit of a pain, especially with the car lowered. I replaced the silver headlights with Black Eagle Eyes (from Amazon or Ebay,) and wired LED fog lights that switch to turn signals (yellow) when activated. They run as the car is running via the fuse block, and switch to yellow turn signals as used. I also replaced the license plate holders.
*Note – The Eagle Eyes Headlights change the bulb socket from the standard 9012, to H8/H9/H11. All three are the same, unless dealing with halogen bulbs – they are different wattages.
It was a bit of a pain, as you have to remove the entire fascia, including the front Aero paneling underneath. The whole assembly then lifts off of the car. You can find this info on youtube – search Dodge Dart Headlight replacement – you’ll fine a few.
The lights I used are from SiriusLed, but the link is no longer valid – May the force be with you! You can also find many of them on ebay.
There are three wires: one for the +12v white, one for +12v yellow, and a ground. Connect the white +12v line directly to the battery (fused) or find a switchable fuse and use one of those “add a fuse” parts from Amazon. The yellow power and ground were connected to the turn signal circuit. When power is sent to the turn signals, it switches to yellow, and flashes in sync with the turn signal. Be sure to leave enough slack in the cable after the splice so you will be able to change bulbs later, when they burn out.
I used a super strong epoxy to connect the LED to the strip next to the fog light. Mine didn’t have the factory fogs, so it was not hard. You need to drill a small 3/8″ hole on the inside of the strip so the light can peek through from the inside, where the wires are. I chose to leave the factory silver bezel/trim in place, and used the top side of it as a glueing surface
The adhesive bonds in 5 minutes, so you have to stand there like a jackass and hold it tightly in place, as it will want to slide off, or rise up off the trim. The LED can be trimmed as needed, and doesn’t affect the light, so I rounded/tapered one end so it sat flush with the trim. The other (wire) end can go back through the hole and be hidden, so it has a clean look to it.
Be sure to leave enough slack, so if the fascia has to be removed again, you won’t rip the wire connecting it to the headlights. It comes with a removable connector, so it can easily be detached. I’m guessing removing the whole thing will be a bit of a pain, but the led should last a few years, and it has been completely waterproof so far.
The problem is, it makes my headlights look yellow and sickly! I’ve got HID’s going in the headlights later this week.
You can add a switch if you like, but I didn’t. Mine run as soon as the car is running, so I never have to remember to turn them on. Keep in mind, that if you have the DRL on, then it turns on the yellow parking lights up front. When these are activated, it will then turn the fog lights yellow as well. So you can run dual amber upfront for DRL, or you can switch the DRL off and only run the fogs during the day. This is a preference found in the touchscreen.
You can tap into the turn signal wires directly out of the lights. If you peel away some tape, you can cut the wires, and then re-splice them back together with solder and/or electrical tape. I would use that ground as well, as the shortest path to ground is always best practice.