Seafoam Cleaner, throttle issues

It’s been too long, guys! I recently had the car apart for a week, and just went nuts. Started with a simple repair (pipe blew off the FMIC) and then once I had the fascia off… it was all over. Updates to come in this crazy thread. I’ve got to uphold my 2016 Ride Of the Month status! Lol. Anyway, I had a throttle body error code a few weeks back. The solution, guys, is to clean out your throttle body! Before I committed to the knuckle-busting task, I tried using Seafoam. I sort of made an injector bottle out of a water bottle, some mulit-pair cable heat shrink, and some zip ties. I could then inject this into the pipe, just before the throttle body. Otherwise, it would spray out when holding the RPM up to avoid choking. I did this a couple of times and it completely went away, and worked like a charm. Looked like a smoke-screen, and I only used about 1/3 of the bottle.

The issue ended up being a wiring issue with the Unichip harness.  Two of the lines shorted, so I soldered two jumper connections, and added waterproof connectors, so the whole thing could easily be removed.


Custom Silicone Apollo Ram Air Intake with Heat Reflective Tape

New Custom Ram Air Intake – I was going to wait until i installed the amazing heat reflective tape I found, but since it’s a bit unusual, I’ll update that in it’s own post. Currently, I have a K&N typhoon CAI, and I installed the HPSI Ram air tube last summer, and I was playing around with a ram air intake system. I found a 45º silicone coupler, and was able to match it up with a universal K&N Apollo filter I found for CHEAP on ebay. I plugged the hole on the new Apollo, and get the temp readings from the same bung on the K&N. The Apollo sits right in the RAM air tube, just like the HPSI intake. This filter is quieter than the K&N, so you’re not always hearing that much turbo “flutter” sound that some have thought to sound like actual turbo flutter. Now the blow off sound is more pronounced, as I drilled out the Forge plate a bit more, and this is now pulling air from down below and through the front grill. Since I’ve put in a open mesh up there, I’m hoping to get as much air flow as possible.

I also like the large K&N heat shield, and I wanted to keep that as well, for more heat reflection. I removed it, and used a sawzall to cut the bottom out, to make room for the filter down there. I was still able to bolt it on from the top.


*heat reflective tape information below*
Next up – custom RAM air is now finished. Here is a better view of the Apollo filter joining with the HPSI Ram air tube. I pressed two small holes on the top of the tube, and used tie-wraps to secure it to the metal frame bracket. This gave me a better, more solid, connection, and I didn’t have to spend all the $$ on their intake. As mentioned earlier, this is a K&N typhoon intake, with some Yoderian Wizardry. I forgot to take a pic, but I also cut off the top / front of the factory air tube, just inside the front grille, This allows for actual air flow, much like the newer 2014-16 models with the plastic tube.


I wrapped the intake with reflective heat wrap. This stuff is 56% more efficient than the cheap ebay gold stuff. I did some research, and this is what many of the racers use (because #racecar not) I purchgased 1 ft (1ft X 15″) which was $33.00 plus shipping, and is called Aerolite-Shield. You can find it at Earls Indy



Intake – not a true CAI

I installed the K & N typhoon intake, which sounds pretty awesome, but I wasn’t seeing the gains I thought I would with it. It doesn’t really cool it enough. It is safer, living in Chicago, from the water – but who wants to be safe?

I want more power and more MPG’s! Here is the mod, although looking back at it, I may go with a true CAI, as this seems to be mostly a sound improvement. MPG barely changed, and the little it did go up was likely me learning the gearbox more efficiently.