Category Archives: Lighting

Under the Hood LEDs and Spinning Subwoofer Grill Switch

Getting things wrapped up for the big Midwest Dart meet – Just a few last thread updates, before I close up this build thread. Some minor updates – I wired in a 3-way switch in the trunk. This powers the spinning subwoofer grill, LEDs in the trunk, and the orange El Wire outlining the subwoofer. I can help if anyone wants to do this – the switch is on-off-on. The first on is constant (for car shows, etc) the off is, well, off; the (lower) on is switched ignition power.

Finally, since I got the hood, there is a vent, so I can show light through it. I put the white engine lights on a separate switch with constant power, so I can turn these on from inside the engine bay.



New hood with demon eyes, hash stripes removed:


LED Lighting, Dream Color Underglow Lighting, Wheel well Lighting, Strobe Lights

Started out with blowing off one of my pipes connecting the FMIC – before I knew it, she looked like this, again:20160706_004651

Next installment, interior switches and wiring. I ran all of the needed wires through the firewall, both below the clutch, as well as on the passenger side, behind the glove box. I did the project in phases, as there is never much time in my life, nowadays. I pre-wired all of the switches in my shop, and measured out all of the cable runs, leaving the excess at the interior firewall. Most of the wires could be run by simply removing the lower footwell panels and below the steering column. Here are the pre-wired switches, and the holes already drilled out. Everything was trimmed and heat-shrinked prior to the installation in these pics:

The wiring is a bit more complicated than needed for most, but it is my specialty, and this is for car shows and hang-outs. The first four colored switches are simple on/off, controlling the strobe lights outside, the KITT LED lights, interior roof shadow lights, and the console and glove box lighting. The second set of switches are DPDT switches, or on-off-on. These are wired to two separate power sources. Up is on constant, with power straight from the battery. Middle position is off, and the lower position is on with an ignition switched fuse location. This enables the exterior LED lights, and the Halo headlights and demon eyes to come on with the car, but also enables them to run with the car off and locked.


Knight Rider K.I.T.T. Led Scanner Bar Lights

Knight Rider 2015!  For car shows & parties…


Shadow Lights / Under Door LED Logo

Last night I started the shadow lights LED installation. There are a few threads about this topic, but none of them actually contain correct information, or at least complete information. The (-) side connected to the door ajar sensor (purple) so it comes on when the door is opened, but there is no 12V+ constant. The door locks are constant power, but only put out +2V, which is not enough to power the lights. I connected the 3 doors to accessory power (orange wire with blue stripe) and I’m running a dedicated constant power lead to the driver door. People are going Ape-Shit over these on FB – and I can’t believe how bright these are glowing! They are 7W, and they use Cree bulbs – I had them custom made with my logos.
front doors:

back doors:

I finished the remaining 2 shadow lights, one logo for the front doors, and the Record Label logo for the rears. FYI – there is a 12V+ constant hot in the driver’s side door. It is a red wire that runs up to the mirror – plain red, no stripe. The door ajar (-) is still purple, but now the door will show the puddle lights when there is no key in the ignition, and there were no wires to fish through the door! Shazam!


LEDs Grille Lights and Wheel Lighting

Next up: More Orange! I added LEDs inside the front grill, another set under the front lip, and a pair inside the front wheel wells – Now the underbody lighting goes all the way around – Ridiculousness Level 11!  The best way to do this is by adding LED strips to the inside of the front bumper, and along the bottom portion, just in front of the FMIC, if you have one.

The wires can easily be routed to the battery, and then to a switch of your choice.




I installed an illuminated toggle switch for these suckers: (the first of many)

It looked much cooler, months later, after I removed the front crosshair, and added multicolor demon eyes:


Underbody LED lighting

As if I don’t stick out enough with this ride – I need more! Underbody LED lights…oh man, here we go!
The transmitter is wireless, so no need for another line through the firewall- everything on the box tucked under the hood can be changed remotely. The thing has about 18 patterns – in orange, of course!

At night (with the orange LED’s on)

During the daytime/evening, also with the orange LED’s on:

Closeup with the LED’s off: