full build thread, including repairs and updates
I like to sit far back in the seat, and with my right foot comfortably on the gas, I felt the end of the clutch path was a bit too far back. I modified the pedal slightly, using a full pedal replacement kit, and doubling up on the front end, then modifying the connectors. I used longer bolts from a hardware store and made sure they were super secured. IT brings the clutch up about 1/2 inch – not a lot, but I like where it’s at now.
Next up was to knock out a few things, since I have to take apart the entire front end – with the Aero panels, it was a bit of a pain, especially with the car lowered. I replaced the silver headlights with Black Eagle Eyes (from Amazon or Ebay,) and wired LED fog lights that switch to turn signals (yellow) when activated. They run as the car is running via the fuse block, and switch to yellow turn signals as used. I also replaced the license plate holders.
*Note – The Eagle Eyes Headlights change the bulb socket from the standard 9012, to H8/H9/H11. All three are the same, unless dealing with halogen bulbs – they are different wattages.
original silver light:
It was a bit of a pain, as you have to remove the entire fascia, including the front Aero paneling underneath. The whole assembly then lifts off of the car. You can find this info on youtube – search Dodge Dart Headlight replacement – you’ll fine a few.
The lights I used are from SiriusLed, but the link is no longer valid – May the force be with you! You can also find many of them on ebay.
There are three wires: one for the +12v white, one for +12v yellow, and a ground. Connect the white +12v line directly to the battery (fused) or find a switchable fuse and use one of those “add a fuse” parts from Amazon. The yellow power and ground were connected to the turn signal circuit. When power is sent to the turn signals, it switches to yellow, and flashes in sync with the turn signal. Be sure to leave enough slack in the cable after the splice so you will be able to change bulbs later, when they burn out.
I used a super strong epoxy to connect the LED to the strip next to the fog light. Mine didn’t have the factory fogs, so it was not hard. You need to drill a small 3/8″ hole on the inside of the strip so the light can peek through from the inside, where the wires are. I chose to leave the factory silver bezel/trim in place, and used the top side of it as a glueing surface
The adhesive bonds in 5 minutes, so you have to stand there like a jackass and hold it tightly in place, as it will want to slide off, or rise up off the trim. The LED can be trimmed as needed, and doesn’t affect the light, so I rounded/tapered one end so it sat flush with the trim. The other (wire) end can go back through the hole and be hidden, so it has a clean look to it.
Be sure to leave enough slack, so if the fascia has to be removed again, you won’t rip the wire connecting it to the headlights. It comes with a removable connector, so it can easily be detached. I’m guessing removing the whole thing will be a bit of a pain, but the led should last a few years, and it has been completely waterproof so far.
The problem is, it makes my headlights look yellow and sickly! I’ve got HID’s going in the headlights later this week.
You can add a switch if you like, but I didn’t. Mine run as soon as the car is running, so I never have to remember to turn them on. Keep in mind, that if you have the DRL on, then it turns on the yellow parking lights up front. When these are activated, it will then turn the fog lights yellow as well. So you can run dual amber upfront for DRL, or you can switch the DRL off and only run the fogs during the day. This is a preference found in the touchscreen.
You can tap into the turn signal wires directly out of the lights. If you peel away some tape, you can cut the wires, and then re-splice them back together with solder and/or electrical tape. I would use that ground as well, as the shortest path to ground is always best practice.
Now Dodge didn’t pay me SHIT to drive it’s vehicles…did they pay you? Well, then I’m not in the mood to advertise them for free! I removed all of the Dodge badges for a cleaner look. The Multiair turbo badge was saved for later use inside. The 5 letters of D-O-D-G-E were replaced with those of my name: Y-O-D-E-R.
I later removed the outer ring:
Next thing I ordered was the Forge Blow off valve – not a biggie, but sounds pretty cool!
I haven’t done much work under the hood before this car, so this was a step up for me. Super easy!
Next up… one of my favorite mods: Eibach Pro Lowering Springs. Couldn’t do the sport, being all Dukes-of-Hazard in Chi-town, but these are great. In fact, I didn’t mention it to my wife, and one day we were driving home and I took a left turn pretty quick. She got all excited and said, “Wow, this new car really feels like it sticks to the road when you turn!” I just grinned
Then I told her.
The rotors were previously painted, but not removed to do so. The next time I have these off to replace the brakes or wheels I will be re painting those bad boys,
Here is after the Eibach Springs installed:
My next purchase was a very simple install – The Madness Go Pedal:
After using it for several weeks – it is quite the improvement, and if you want to remind yourself, turn it off for a while! Now I get it, it’s not improving HP, and it’s not a tune, but it does make it fun to drive. I will be getting the tune eventually, so this may stay or go. But for now, it is quite the improvement in fuel economy, too. I started out with the economy mode, and it sure make millions of starts and stops in tight Chicago traffic easier. It is a slower, smoother start in first gear and promotes more eco-type driving.
With the middle mode selected, I surprisingly got better MPG than the stock as well. I had it on for a few commutes into the city, and it was 5 mpg higher than the trips without it. I’m sure it influences my driving, so It’s not a “magic pedal” – but it did what I wanted it to do! All of my non-cosmetic mods are hopefully going to contribute to better mileage. The red (Sport) mode is best for chasing neighborhood animals and scaring small children! Seriously though, whoa – it for sure kills the MPG – so I don’t use it often, but it is fun to be able to kick it on when I want to impress my wife.
Actually, that is a complete lie. She could care less. Lol.
*edit – this was later removed
First up, for me, is fixing the factory audio system. I have never known much about cars, but I have always installed third party audio systems. I am a sound engineer, so I’m very picky about audio, and have very specific audio needs. It is often important to check mixes in the car, and compare with other audio reference material. I did a bit of analysis with the audio, both with a pink noise generator and frequency analyzer and my old school ears. The factory limiter in the audio path sucks, but it can work with proper gain staging and third party solutions.
Here is the trunk installation. These are the wires running along the driver side, under the doors. They run into the two fuse blocks, and the amp power goes directly to the battery (fused.)
The wires were brought into the back seat, then sent up to the front, where they were spliced together with the factory speaker cable. This line includes direct power for the power amplifier, remote 12v switching cable, subwoofer remote control, & speaker sends. The large, heavy stuff was all mounted to the top of the trunk, under the back window. I used self tapping screws and made sure everything is very tight and solid, as the subwoofer will be vibrating right near there. In the picture, you can see the power amplifier, audio crossover & Speaker to line level converter.
I tucked away the wires as tightly as possible, as my children can be Ultra-Massive-Destructoids, and anything hanging, dangling, or lying about is subject to their wrath. I didn’t want any chance of having to do this again because of carelessness, or because a Nerf gun battle broke out and the trunk was used for cover…
I used a distribution block for power, since the amplifier and the crossover had different power requirements. The crossover has a remote control function – this is used for the subwoofer, so that may be adjusted on the fly, without use of the radio or other controls. 
Subwoofer Control – lines run along door panels, and up underneath steering wheel:
After the full installation, I was rockin’ for about two weeks – then all of a sudden, no bass! Uh oh – the amplifier i had used was from a previous installation, so it already had a bunch of hours on it. Needless to say, the power transformer blew on it – It wasn’t worth the time for me to fix it, due to it’s power and age, so I replaced it with a Kicker DX.500. This is a mono, 500 watt power amplifier specifically designed for this purpose. I added a 0/1 Awg ground line for power in the trunk when I replaced the unit.
From the driver seat, I have control of the EQ and subwoofer controls, and from the trunk, I can alter the crossover frequency, bass boost & output gain. The Polk speakers compliment the Kicker 3.5″ in the front dash, as the Kicker full range 6×9 speakers are a bit too “hyped” for my taste. In other words, they boost the high frequencies in our vehicles 3-5 dB at 8K and higher. The Polks have always sounded smoother to me, and the addition on the subwoofer and dash speakers give it a huge sound – not a flat frequency curve, but a pleasantly pleasing one.
Subwoofer in my trunk (that’s an emergency tie-down strap on the right) It was later painted and modified.
Here is a quick how-to explaining how to remove and clean the interior blower motor. This is the fan that blows fresh air into the cabin of your car. There is a filter that should be replaced every 6 to 12 months, but if there is debris in the blower motor fan, then a new filter won’t help. My car had always sounded like a team of fighter jets were coming through my vents when I cranked up the fan ever since I bought her – I thought, “Man, this car is perfect if it only didn’t have such a loud-ass fan!”
If your fan is loud, I recommend doing this procedure. It doesn’t take that long, but you will have to perform some amazing feats of dexterity and nimbleness to get access to this fan. Acrobatic or advanced yoga skills are highly recommended.
First of all, remove the floor panel on the passenger side, sitting just to the left of their feet. It simply pulls off with moderate force, help in by 3 plastic clips.
Next, you have to remove the fiber top to the footwells. It is held in place by two black plastic clips going into the trim above it, just below the glove box. Use a pair of needle nose pliers or flat screwdriver to remove the clips, so you don’t rip the fiber panels.
Now, it’s time to do some stretching – maybe run a few laps, some jumping jacks… You need to look up inside the center console, above the footwell area, and behind the cabin air filter (which is white in the pic, and says “Air Flow ->”
If you position yourself upside down, behind that area, you will find the blower motor, secured with 3 screws. Removing these screws is my favorite part. Once off, the cover will come right off, and the blower is directly inside. Note which direction the tabs are pointing, so it can be put back, as it only fits in one way.
All this is well worth it, especially if yours looks like mine did:
Remove the debris, and put the blower motor and cover back on, then replace the footwell cover and plastic cover. Now go take a shower, as you have blower dirt and floor debris in your hair!
I had been looking for the perfect car for several months – even going as far as creating a spreadsheet to keep track of all the cars that could be modded, got good gas mileage, could fit my wife and 2 kids, and look BAD ASS. My search ended when I found my sweet new girlfriend, Dartlene! (or as my children refer to her as Orangina [long i sound]) I bought her with 52K miles, and she already had some mods done!
These are the original listing pics:
Now under my rule – replaced tint, washed & rolled into Chicago!
