full build thread, including repairs and updates
One of my favorite mods, and decision, was to purchase the Unichip Q4 with a custom tune written by @gentz on the dodge-dart.org forum. This sucker runs amesome! I also painted and customized the fuse box cover, too.
I had this custom made from a vendor on ebay – he used my company logo and printed a design that fits perfectly on the third brake light:
I asked my wife if I could bring this to bed…
Needless to say, she was not nearly as excited as I was about the new FMIC!
FMIC time! ! ! ! It’s time to do some installation fun! I got some tips from some very helpful members on the .org, and the DRP pipes arrived in the mail, too! Yippee!
So I am using my buddy’s garage, and I’m doing all of the final mods at once, so I don’t have to keep pulling the front fascia off. I have the front end off, as well as the aero panels and intercooler shrouds, and now I’m ready to tackle the challenge before me!
I also now have full 2.5″ coming in to the engine, the intercooler & pipes, as well as going back out through the exhaust.
This is the weak, stock FMIC:
New FMIC:
FMIC – how to / installation / part list
@jrobmsu (at dodge-dart.org) asked me about the FMIC on Facebook, so I’d thought I would elaborate, as I spent a ton of time doing research on this topic with people who know more about it than myself. First of all, the stock FMIC is 27 X 7 X 2.5, or 337.5 cubic inches. You don’t really want one twice the size, or larger, as others have confirmed that it takes the turbo a lot longer to spool up, and you would lose precious low end torque. On the other hand, the stock IC is pretty weak, so even a third party unit would likely be more efficient at the same size.
There are kits out there, but quite expensive. I put in one from ebay, that is 28 X 7 X 2.5, or 490 cubic inches. IMO – this one is perfect. Perfect fit, good width, and everything connects pretty solid. If you stick with 2.5″ I/O you will have the best possible air flow, but it is tight to fit in there, so you have to massage the hoses to fit them in a bit. I took some images of what I purchased last year, so hopefully, this will help someone else out, too. I didn’t know jack-squat before this car, so I’m learning as I go, as I fix other stuff for a living, so this is very interesting to me.
Here is an example shopping cart from ebay of everything you need, assuming you have 2.5″ IC pipes, such as the DRP. You need two of the 90º couplers, & several clamps. I cut the aluminum pipe in half, one for each side. Remember to put the clamps in a direction where you could access it without the fascia off the car, in case you have to change something later.
Next up: Steering Wheel Badge!
As is:
I know it would look better in person, and I didn’t spend much time editing the pics.
I finally got my parts in the mail all the way from Europe – My Custom Redlinegoods shift boot! I installed this at the same time I installed the MPX short throw shifter, as well as a Momo shift knob. I really thought I wanted the Alfa Romeo Giulietta Carbon Gear Knob – but it was out of stock. I’m patient, so I would have waited, however, after doing more research, i found that this was not the best option. It is a plain grey ball, and didn’t seem to have the leather/comfort/grip/feel that I really wanted.
This is really the coolest combination! The Redline Leather Shift boot looks AMAZING! They put a lot of detail into the products, and it looked even better in person than it did when I designed it on their website using their color tools. You can pick out stitching color, stripes, two stripes, you can do virtually anything. I got an email right away explaining the international shipping information, and what to expect. It showed up just as they said it would, and I am extremely happy with the whole setup.
The throw of the shifter took a week to get used to, but now it’s like butter. I have not missed any second gear shifts, and the metal grommets (which replace 4 stock rubber bushings) feel more solid, more like a sports car should. The grip of the MOFO shift knob is groovy as well. Yeah, I know it’s Momo, but now I’m the Mofo!!
I’ll be showing this beast off tonight at our local Berwyn Cruise Nights at the Depot District! Shazam!
HID’s? GET IN THERE!
Bright as Hell! Single error at startup, but some flickering, then sometimes they wouldn’t fire. Winter seemed to be worse.
These were a generic, Chinese knock-off brand, likely purchased through Alibaba.com. They said “Canbus Pro” on them, and the numbers never matched any cross referencing. The Eagle Eyes headlights changed the bulb socket from 9012, to H8/H9/H1. They ended up flickering, a bit. I adjusted the grounds, but didn’t help. The left ballast finally went out Jan 2017, so they were replaced with Xenon-Vision HID’s.
The Xenon-Vision HID’s are the real deal!
These are error free, and many have gotten great results, even in the extreme cold.
Once at the site, select Canbus 35W ballasts, and choose 9012. The 55W will be too hot, and may cause issues. These will work bright, and error-free. On checkout, use the code “dodge-dart” for a $20.00 discount. As of Jan 2017, mine were $80.00, shipped with the discount! Here is the link.
These work very well, and are quite simple. I got rid of the dedicated battery line and relay, and simply draws power from the stock headlights. No additional resistors were needed, and the build quality is top notch – a very rugged looking product.
Mine were the wrong bulbs, at first, due to the Eagle Eyes. They even sent me a replacement, and paid for the shipping! I really recommend these guys! Other great websites for HIDs are Diode Dynamics, Morimoto and Xenon Supply.
The best video I’ve seen, that explains HIDs and light temperature is here:
Here is a chart, cross referencing light color temperature and perceived lumens:
There is a great review on dodge-dart.org, by my friend, Matt “Cntrollerfanboy” here. He goes into detail, and the product really is good.
Next up: Exhaust! I spent a lot of time on youtube, annoying my wife with loud car videos. It seems like the 1.4 runs best without that muffler – deleted! That really was the way to go – my buddy told me that it kinda sounds like a Lambo now. It really growls! It was a little much in the cabin at first, but once I got used to it, now I love riding with the windows down so I can hear her purr. I used James Dean Muffler in the Chicagoland area – he was great!
First, he cut off my muffler so we could hear how it sounded, and I took it for a spin to check performance, sound & efficiency.
Gone:
After I drove around, he put her back up and started making the pipes. He used all stainless steel (I’m in Chicago) 2.5″ and it was cool to watch him make it on his bench and then start putting it on the car.
Here he has one side done, and is starting to build the “Y” piece.
Some welding action:
Done:
Next up: More Orange! I added LEDs inside the front grill, another set under the front lip, and a pair inside the front wheel wells – Now the underbody lighting goes all the way around – Ridiculousness Level 11! The best way to do this is by adding LED strips to the inside of the front bumper, and along the bottom portion, just in front of the FMIC, if you have one.
The wires can easily be routed to the battery, and then to a switch of your choice.
I installed an illuminated toggle switch for these suckers: (the first of many)
It looked much cooler, months later, after I removed the front crosshair, and added multicolor demon eyes:
Last night, I installed the GFB D+ – I ordered it from Australia and saved $30 – the bolts that shipped with it did not reach with the Forge BOV, which I suspected. No problem – a trip to Home Depot and $3 took care of that.
