CDV Delete and Review (RRM / Road Race Motorsports)

Review of the CDV Delete from Deyeme Racing

First of all, let me preface this with saying I am no car expert, but I have learned a lot the past 18 months with my Dart. The only thing I can offer is my personal experience, and I hope it helps somebody else out there. My inbox, as well on FB, has been blowing up with people asking about this, so here we go:

I did this installation during the afternoon, after installing the flex rear engine mount, which came in the same box from @DeyemeRacing . I guess I’m their poster-boy this week – lol. I had some prior issues, which is relevant to the topic, so I’ll explain. I bought the Dart last Feb 14 – and the night I brought it home, my clutch sunk to the floor and stayed there. Looking back on the situation, it actually stuck a tiny bit a few times, but I didn’t know enough to recognize it, as it was very subtle. The following week, the Kia dealership, where I purchased the vehicle, replaced the Master and Slave cylinder, as well as the clutch. They tried to blame my driving on the clutch going out – yeah – on the first day I owned it. Anyway, you don’t mess with a Amish guys’s kid – needless to say, a year later Chrysler reimbursed me for everything. Woot Woot!

As time went on, after the replacement, I had 2-3 issues over the next 8 months, where the clutch would stick momentarily, and then pop up. Couldn’t get any video, but I took it back in one time, complaining of the same issue, they couldn’t replace it and claimed to bleed the clutch. It did feel better, and I know they bled it b/c the green outlet nipple was missing (no cap.) As time went on, I would try to analyze the clutch, and I realize that many, if not all, of the “jerky” launches I had in first gear was due to the CDV sticking, ever so slightly, then releasing a moment later, causing a less than perfect launch. I have been driving stick for over 25 years, so I’m pretty confident in my ability to drive any stick, even bigger trucks. If I needed to move quickly, such as WOT, the clutch would stick momentarily. I also noticed (as others did) that on my WOT launches, I would grind third gear. It happened about 5-6 times since I’ve had the car, no more, but it was odd to me.

I also agree with others about the 1-2 shift point. Let me tell you what – this freakin sh!t fixed everything!!  Buy it and get out of here! Go!

What are you still doing here? Ok fine:

Does this feel like a new clutch?

Does this feel stiffer?
Yes, but that may have been accomplished by simply topping off the fluid levels. The clutch feels tight and consistent.

Did I have to re-learn the clutch?

How long did the install take?
2 hours.

Did it change the way I drive?

Does it make me happy?
OMG – Every single launch was perfect, even in slow, city traffic. I have not opened it up yet, I’ve only driven 10 or so miles in city traffic, but A LOT of clutch holding, launches, downshifting, etc. Shifting into second gear was perfect every time. I had no jerkiness, no sticking, no issues, and I couldn’t be happier. I don’t double clutch much in this car, but I do rev match to downshift, and there were no issues there, either – smooth as butter!

This fixes the inconsistencies of the CDV. I really think many Darts’ CDV’s stick a little bit, but so slight that you don’t always notice, until it’s gone. I didn’t have to adjust anything, and driving it was as easy as driving any manual. Also, keep in mind, I never really had issues launching, but looking back, I can see where it was less than consistent. I would say, that if you haven’t done a bunch of mods, this is NOT the easiest installation. The biggest difficulty was bleeding the system.

Two issues I had while doing this installation was removing the CDV without pulling the pushpin completely out. I dropped the pushpin, and it’s very difficult to see in there, so be careful of losing it. The other issue was my air compressor wasn’t powerful enough to use the brake bleeder tool. That fluid drained SOOOO slow. I ended up using a friend to help, so one could pump the clutch and the other monitored the fluid. The biggest thing, is DO NOT LET AIR INTO THE SYSTEM. Make sure fluid stays in your supply tank. I’m not sure if I read it wrong, but I bought 3 quarts of brake fluid, but only needed less than one. It was taking so long to bleed, I ended up topping it off and replacing only what I needed. I’m going to see how it does, as I haven’t opened the other two bottles, but by looking at the tank, I don’t think you could even fit more than a quart in there, but I could be wrong.

I will give more results on the power / racing side on my personal build thread here. I will surely beat my 7.16 second 0-60 now that my clutch responds properly.

If you are in Chicago, New Star Transmission will install it for you for $140 + parts, if you don’t feel confident in your abilities. PM me for details, or google them – ask for David.

OEM CDV:20160530_233527


FMIC and Intercooler (IC) Pipes

I asked my wife if I could bring this to bed…20150727_233900
Needless to say, she was not nearly as excited as I was about the new FMIC!

FMIC time! ! ! ! It’s time to do some installation fun! I got some tips from some very helpful members on the .org, and the DRP pipes arrived in the mail, too! Yippee!

So I am using my buddy’s garage, and I’m doing all of the final mods at once, so I don’t have to keep pulling the front fascia off. I have the front end off, as well as the aero panels and intercooler shrouds, and now I’m ready to tackle the challenge before me!

I also now have full 2.5″ coming in to the engine, the intercooler & pipes, as well as going back out through the exhaust.

This is the weak, stock FMIC:

FMIC – how to / installation / part list

@jrobmsu (at asked me about the FMIC on Facebook, so I’d thought I would elaborate, as I spent a ton of time doing research on this topic with people who know more about it than myself. First of all, the stock FMIC is 27 X 7 X 2.5, or 337.5 cubic inches. You don’t really want one twice the size, or larger, as others have confirmed that it takes the turbo a lot longer to spool up, and you would lose precious low end torque. On the other hand, the stock IC is pretty weak, so even a third party unit would likely be more efficient at the same size.

There are kits out there, but quite expensive. I put in one from ebay, that is 28 X 7 X 2.5, or 490 cubic inches. IMO – this one is perfect. Perfect fit, good width, and everything connects pretty solid. If you stick with 2.5″ I/O you will have the best possible air flow, but it is tight to fit in there, so you have to massage the hoses to fit them in a bit. I took some images of what I purchased last year, so hopefully, this will help someone else out, too. I didn’t know jack-squat before this car, so I’m learning as I go, as I fix other stuff for a living, so this is very interesting to me.

Here is an example shopping cart from ebay of everything you need, assuming you have 2.5″ IC pipes, such as the DRP. You need two of the 90º couplers, & several clamps. I cut the aluminum pipe in half, one for each side. Remember to put the clamps in a direction where you could access it without the fascia off the car, in case you have to change something later.

intercooler part list