Adding Modular Lighting under a ground effect, such as lip or splitter

UntitledSeveral people have inquired about adding lights to add-on items, such as front lips, wind splitters, and other bumper or fascia modifications.  There is not a lot of room under there, especially if you are lowered, so here are a few tips to help install, as well as making it easy to install and remove the parts, as needed.

The lights will need 12v+, and will use basic two conductor cable/wire – I recommend using a waterproof connector, so the part can be easily removed.  Here is a connector cut from a headlight assembly:UntitledI added silicone to further waterproof the connector, just in case.  Then I cut a small hole, 3.5″ back from the second fascia bolt from the outside, in order to run the wires:UntitledFrom there, just cut enough wire for the splitter connection, as well as the end that goes in the car and through the fascia.  I already had 12v+ there, so I only needed a few feet to reach my lines:Untitled

At this point, it is time to add your led strips. There is not enough room for anything else.  In addition, if these are damaged, a new set can easily be installed, and they are quite cheap to replace. ($10-20 from ebay)  I cut two strips, one for each side of the hole I drilled:Untitled

The hole lines up with this hole in the under carriage, right in the center of this picture:

Now, you can add the lights using the 3M adhesive, and run the wires up through the hole you created:UntitledUntitled

Now, solder the wires together with your prepared waterproof connector on the top side of the splitter:Untitled

Added silicone to the solder joints:Untitled

With enough slack on the added wire and connectors, the splitter 12V lines can be attached through the hole in the under carriage, then the entire thing can be mounted / unmounted any time you need to do so.Untitled



LED Lighting, Dream Color Underglow Lighting, Wheel well Lighting, Strobe Lights

Started out with blowing off one of my pipes connecting the FMIC – before I knew it, she looked like this, again:20160706_004651

Next installment, interior switches and wiring. I ran all of the needed wires through the firewall, both below the clutch, as well as on the passenger side, behind the glove box. I did the project in phases, as there is never much time in my life, nowadays. I pre-wired all of the switches in my shop, and measured out all of the cable runs, leaving the excess at the interior firewall. Most of the wires could be run by simply removing the lower footwell panels and below the steering column. Here are the pre-wired switches, and the holes already drilled out. Everything was trimmed and heat-shrinked prior to the installation in these pics:

The wiring is a bit more complicated than needed for most, but it is my specialty, and this is for car shows and hang-outs. The first four colored switches are simple on/off, controlling the strobe lights outside, the KITT LED lights, interior roof shadow lights, and the console and glove box lighting. The second set of switches are DPDT switches, or on-off-on. These are wired to two separate power sources. Up is on constant, with power straight from the battery. Middle position is off, and the lower position is on with an ignition switched fuse location. This enables the exterior LED lights, and the Halo headlights and demon eyes to come on with the car, but also enables them to run with the car off and locked.


Knight Rider K.I.T.T. Led Scanner Bar Lights

Knight Rider 2015!  For car shows & parties…