Seafoam Cleaner, throttle issues

It’s been too long, guys! I recently had the car apart for a week, and just went nuts. Started with a simple repair (pipe blew off the FMIC) and then once I had the fascia off… it was all over. Updates to come in this crazy thread. I’ve got to uphold my 2016 Ride Of the Month status! Lol. Anyway, I had a throttle body error code a few weeks back. The solution, guys, is to clean out your throttle body! Before I committed to the knuckle-busting task, I tried using Seafoam. I sort of made an injector bottle out of a water bottle, some mulit-pair cable heat shrink, and some zip ties. I could then inject this into the pipe, just before the throttle body. Otherwise, it would spray out when holding the RPM up to avoid choking. I did this a couple of times and it completely went away, and worked like a charm. Looked like a smoke-screen, and I only used about 1/3 of the bottle.

The issue ended up being a wiring issue with the Unichip harness.  Two of the lines shorted, so I soldered two jumper connections, and added waterproof connectors, so the whole thing could easily be removed.

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Custom Silicone Apollo Ram Air Intake with Heat Reflective Tape

New Custom Ram Air Intake – I was going to wait until i installed the amazing heat reflective tape I found, but since it’s a bit unusual, I’ll update that in it’s own post. Currently, I have a K&N typhoon CAI, and I installed the HPSI Ram air tube last summer, and I was playing around with a ram air intake system. I found a 45º silicone coupler, and was able to match it up with a universal K&N Apollo filter I found for CHEAP on ebay. I plugged the hole on the new Apollo, and get the temp readings from the same bung on the K&N. The Apollo sits right in the RAM air tube, just like the HPSI intake. This filter is quieter than the K&N, so you’re not always hearing that much turbo “flutter” sound that some have thought to sound like actual turbo flutter. Now the blow off sound is more pronounced, as I drilled out the Forge plate a bit more, and this is now pulling air from down below and through the front grill. Since I’ve put in a open mesh up there, I’m hoping to get as much air flow as possible.

I also like the large K&N heat shield, and I wanted to keep that as well, for more heat reflection. I removed it, and used a sawzall to cut the bottom out, to make room for the filter down there. I was still able to bolt it on from the top.

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*heat reflective tape information below*
Next up – custom RAM air is now finished. Here is a better view of the Apollo filter joining with the HPSI Ram air tube. I pressed two small holes on the top of the tube, and used tie-wraps to secure it to the metal frame bracket. This gave me a better, more solid, connection, and I didn’t have to spend all the $$ on their intake. As mentioned earlier, this is a K&N typhoon intake, with some Yoderian Wizardry. I forgot to take a pic, but I also cut off the top / front of the factory air tube, just inside the front grille, This allows for actual air flow, much like the newer 2014-16 models with the plastic tube.

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I wrapped the intake with reflective heat wrap. This stuff is 56% more efficient than the cheap ebay gold stuff. I did some research, and this is what many of the racers use (because #racecar not) I purchgased 1 ft (1ft X 15″) which was $33.00 plus shipping, and is called Aerolite-Shield. You can find it at Earls Indy

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Intake – not a true CAI

I installed the K & N typhoon intake, which sounds pretty awesome, but I wasn’t seeing the gains I thought I would with it. It doesn’t really cool it enough. It is safer, living in Chicago, from the water – but who wants to be safe?

I want more power and more MPG’s! Here is the mod, although looking back at it, I may go with a true CAI, as this seems to be mostly a sound improvement. MPG barely changed, and the little it did go up was likely me learning the gearbox more efficiently.

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