High Decibel Air Horn

I installed a twin tone, 139 decibel air horn under the hood, right near the front grill, facing outward.  Used in conjunction with the stock horn, this thing is really LOUD!  The horn was wired through a relay, installed under the hood, and still runs off of 12v power.  I put a red illuminated switch, just to the left of the shifter, and I wired it to stay illuminated while the car is running.

The horn is Stebel Nautilus Compact Mini Air Horn.

Wiring Instructions:20160615_200117 Pinout: 20160615_195819


Fender Flares

I’ve received numerous requests on these.  They are made from ABS plastic, but have a carbon fiber “look” to them, and can be molded with heat.  I take the ABS and bend them to shape, so they will fit the Dart wheel wells, giving it a small flared fender look.  A set of four of these is $49.00, and they are made to order.  Please allow time for your product to receive the attention that it deserves! 20160605_143151 20160605_143201 Untitled Untitled Hood pins


Dartlene Rear Diffuser

Dartlene Rear DiffuserThis is a rear diffuser version that is also a bit more aggressive, much like the front and sides.  It is extremely lightweight, and attaches directly to the rear fascia.  This product will likely not work with the Mopar rear diffuser, but will work with dual exhaust and no exhaust cutout setups.

There is a new version of the diffuser, Diffuser Plus, and each fin is twice the width of the original, or 12mm wide.  This is two sheets of Alumalite, bonded together.  The screw holes will be to one side of each fin.

The fins are made of alumalite, are extremely durable, and attach to the back with mounting tape and screws.  There is a hinge underneath to attach upwards to the existing undercarriage, and also screws into the fascia.  *You will have to make holes in your fascia!

Drilling is not needed, the kit includes self tapping screws, and the fins are pre-drilled, so a simple screwdriver will be all that is needed for installation. The diffuser fins are made from 6 mm, gloss black alumalite.  Double sided tape & screws will be included for mounting.  This kit has been on Dartlene since 2015 without incident.

For a more professional installation, we recommend removing the adhesive, and applying a thin bead of black silicone.  You can use dish soap and water to clean the overage, and this will dry incredibly solid on the car!

The standard version is 6mm thick, while the plus diffuser fins are 12mm thick.  The screws do show, or you can use a small amount of liquid electrical tape (black) to cover the screws, as shown in these pics.  The mounting hinge can be seen underneath:Untitled

These are made to order, and require painting, so delivery will be about a week out.  These are all made by hand, and are available to order today, for $159.00, and the Diffuser Plus version is $219.00. Shipping is ~$10 to most of the US.

This includes 4 (or 5) fins, mounting screws and hinge, as well as double-sided tape for added strength.  Black silicone is recommended (instead of the adhesive) for a more professional installation.

New in 2018, we now offer a 5th fin!  The fifth fin goes underneath the license plate, so it is a bit shorter.  This is an additional $45 for the Diffuser, and $65 for the Diffuser Plus version, pictured below:UntitledUntitled

*Installation Instructions can be found here.

Some more pics of the original diffuser:UntitledRear Diffuser
UntitledRear diffuser standard version


Dartlene Side Skirts

Mopar makes the only side skirts available for this car, but we wanted something a bit more aggressive, to match the front and rear.  We re-designed the side skirts to match the front splitter and rear diffuser, using the same industrial strength 6mm alumalite! These look amazing, and are super durable!

The kit is $199.00, plus shipping, and local pickup is always available. Please use the contact page for questions and inquires.

Kit includes:
2 alumalite side skirts, in gloss black with molding and subtle “winglets”
Nuts, bolts and washers to assemble the winglets
Self-tapping screws to attach the skirt

The unit is attached using the supplied screws to the underside of your rocker panel – installation only requires a floor jack and a screw gun.

These are mounted fairly aggressive, as they stick out a bit, but there is room to adjust that positioning.  The front is an angle, which matches the body of the car, and allows these to mount, regardless if you have mud flaps installed.

Please keep in mind, these have to be ordered, as they are not in stock – It may take a little time for shipping and setup.  Thanks for shopping @ the Horse! 







































Use the form below to purchase.  Send us your PayPal email and shipping address and we will send you an invoice.

*Installation Instructions can be found here.


Dartlene Front Wind Splitter

Version R front Joe

Basic Splitter: $289.00 (gloss black finish, with support rods, includes all mounting hardware) you choose: Version S (top), Version R (rounded version above) and Version B (looks like a “B” below.)  Chicagoland installation is possible, although you can likely do it yourself in an hour or less!  (You do not need to remove the front bumper.)  Shipping is $70.00 to most of the US.

If you are interested in the lip underneath the splitter, or the side wings, they can be specially ordered – just let us know when you fill out the form.

The car pictured (above) has a carbon fiber lip underneath the splitter, as well as side wings – these items are sold separately. (Version S pictured above, Version B is below:)
stephen 12

version B 1

Parts are now available!  We make them to order, so it will take a few weeks to get your custom splitter to you, depending on add-ons.  The alumalite and basic hardware is local, but some of the rods and wings will take extra time to order and build.  Keep in mind, this product is not available ANYWHERE ELSE!

We offer local installation as well – We will need to see your car for an actual quote.  We can change the position of the support holes, too.  This will work with the Mopar lip as well (although not recommended) and the Deyeme Racing underbody panel, although you will need eight 2.5″ M5 bolts in addition to the supplied hardware.

We can also offer a rounded design, Version R: (The car pictured has a carbon fiber lip underneath the Version R splitter, this is sold separately.)

Dartlene Wind Splitter - Round Version

We now offer a brand new design, version G, here shown on this Charger, and below on the red Dart:

Charger Splitter 2015+

The wind splitter is made out of 6 mm (1/4”) alumalite, which is the lightest, strongest weatherproof material I could find.  This is corrugated for strength and weight, and is completely waterproof.  Keep in mind, if you crash into something, such as parking block or curb – it may break.  I cannot promise any functional high speed gains, as I just don’t have the equipment to do such testing – they do look pretty badass, though!

Below is the Version S splitter shown in carbon fiber wrap, and no lip / guard:

Version S Red Dart 3
I am extremely proud to announce the version 2.0 splitter is now 100% functional, and bolts to the frame underneath. It isn’t quite a full underbody shield, but it does support the two front pieces, and protects the underside, as well. The unit is very solid & rigid, and the support rods are not necessary, unless you want to be cool 🙂 Wot Box, Black Alumalite Splitter, Wiring Dartlene Alumalite Front Splitter Dart '13-16

There are several options available, and unfinished will be black alumalite, and could be wrapped, painted, dipped, etc by you! The version shown below has the basic rods, wings, simulated carbon fiber underlip / splitter protector, and is carbon fiber wrapped.  Keep in mind, the bottom side will be unfinished, and if you crawl on the ground, you will see the seams of the wrap, and partial bare alumalite.  The basic rods have aluminum shafts, but the nuts and mounts are steel, and may rust in extreme weather conditions.

This includes all of the mounting hardware and holes, some of which I could only find in silver or clear, so these would be hand painted.  Instructions included, but will require some minimal mounting skills. If you have the stock lower grille, than I will include several 1” washers (also painted black) to mount to the OEM lower grille.  The rods are completely optional, as the splitter is quite strong without them, and the rods are really only aesthetic, anyway.

All of these upgrades are fairly simple, but do take a bit of time and materials to complete.  If you are moderately good at mechanical things, you could easily do the upgrades, yourself.  I can still provide mounting holes, if you request it, as the support rods and side wings are certainly optional.  If you want to paint or dip it yourself, be sure to use adhesive promotor, and then a primer, before applying the paint, or dip.

– We accept Visa/MasterCard/Paypal –  Use the contact form below, and be sure to specify which options you would like, and we will send you a Paypal invoice for the total.

*Installation Instructions can be found here.
Dartlene Wind Splitter - Round Version

UntitledUntitledWot Box, Black Alumalite Splitter, Wiring Wot Box, Black Alumalite Splitter, Wiringfront splitter front dart

20160424_190543  collin close

As you can see, our splitters hold up better than your Dart!  Here are the results of a minor crash on a Dart with version “S” installed:Crashproof

With a little creativity (and $40/hour labor charge) we can customize your splitter to match your individual, unique needs!  Yoder’s splitter has some custom alumalite wings, carbon fiber short trim, and angled spacer covers:UntitledIMG_5227


Hood Pins Installed (on carbon fiber hood)

Hood Pins Installed – A local car tech suggested to keep my new carbon fiber hood looking good for years to come, I should secure it with hood pins. This will keep it from cracking over time, and a safety net from the hood latch separating from the carbon and snapping up during extreme driving. Less than a week later, the clearcoat on the CF started to get a crack near the hood latch. I immediately ordered hood pins, including gaskets, so no metal would be touching the carb fiber. The hood needs to be re-clear coated in 1-2 years, so no biggie, but I wanted to ensure it stays this way.



What is a wot box? What does it do? Why?

WOT Box – N2MB Racing
Launch Control
Launch Control – what is it?
Anti-lag System

Answer: Why not?

Enough with the reading, here we go:

First of all, I used to run a Unichip Q4, which used a harness that connects to the PCM, basically inserting itself between the PCM and the car. This made my install quite easy, as I could tap into all of the needed wires from within my harness, without any cutting, splicing, or modifying of the factory wires, except for one. Below is the cryptic instructions I received from their customer service, upon asking if it would work. There were mixed reviews on what would work, what wouldn’t work, and how to do it, as I reached out to several people who had done it before on other social media sites, and I now know the full details of this box.

The colors in the chart refer to the colors on the wot box. The one thing that may be different is the coil output wire, which may be black or orange, depending on the revision harness you receive. This is the basic pinouts from their website:

Below are the pinouts for both PCM connectors – one is slightly larger than the other, so they are easy to tell apart.  You will need to access both:
Dart PCM pinouts C1 connector

Dart PCD pinouts C2 connector

All of the wires tap into the lines in question, except for the ignition coils, which I’ll get to in a minute.  You simply need to tap into the the above wires, with the exception of the coils, in which the wot box is inserted into the path.  Skip the next paragraph if you are comfortable tapping off of electrical wiring, or using

I used a technique where I scrape the top layer off of one side of a wire, using a razor blade. You run the blade carefully down the side of the wire, basically stripping one side of the wire. You can make several passes to give you 1/4″ or so of bare wire, such as this (the actual wire won’t break so easily, as the crappy wire in the pic did – doesn’t matter, though, as the solder will solidify it) I did this quickly for these pics, but it’s easy to get perfect with no broken wires, with a little practice. (Yes, you can just use wire taps, but I make every connection under my hood waterproof, and wire taps look like sh!t) Next, add a small amount of solder flux to the exposed wire. Then, add your solder to the bare wire. This is very easy using the flux ,as it forces the solder to melt away any hanging rubber and seal perfectly to the wire:

The connection is then covered with liquid electrical tape:

Be sure to tin the new wire as well, so when you make the connection they bond. If wires are soldered properly, the bond will be far stronger than the wire.

We need to tap into the wires below:
(PCM Wire Harnesses)
Green clutch large connector pin 84 (light green/orange)
Black ground pin 2 large connector (black)
Blue accelerator pedal pin 83 large connector (white/brown)
Yellow injectors pin 3 small connector (blue/black)

The ignition coil power splice (RED / ORANGE) is to all the coils. The  WOT Box needs to be able to cut power to all the coils.  You can find this on the back on the fuse block – Fuse #16 (15 AMP) – brown/yellow wire.  This is also a dark blue/red wire at Coil #1, pin #2.  I do not recommend running bare wire directly over the engine block to connect at this end, it is better to do it at the fuse block.  If you use my method, you can remove the Wot Box at any time in 60 seconds!

The last part of the N2MB pinout instructions above, in red, is very cryptic. This is what it means – you need to interrupt power to all 4 ignition coils at once, by inserting the wot box in this line – out to the box, from the box back to the line.  Some users spliced into the four wires at the engine block, but this seems like trouble, to me. Instead, there is a brown/yellow wire coming directly out of Fuse #16 in the engine bay. If you pull the fuse block up a bit, you can get to this wire and cut it. I went the extra step, and soldered a waterproof connector here: wot box coil connectors

In other words: “Cut the brown/yellow wire in half, the piece going into the fuse gets wired to the RED wire on the wot box so it supplies 12V to the WOT box, and the other part of the cut wire goes towards the coils, so the orange wire goes there, allowing the WOT box to turn ON/OFF power to the coils.”

This way, the whole thing can be quickly removed. When not in use, the male/female connectors complete the circuit as usual. When they are plugged into the lines to the wot box, it gives the wot box power, and completes the circuit. This was a bit of extra work, but makes for a clean installation, and can be removed to repair, go to the dealership, etc. The red line goes to the fuse, which gives the box 12V+ power, the orange (or 2nd black) goes out to the four coils. You can confirm this with a multi-meter.

These are the waterproof connectors, and I also added liquid electrical tape to every connection, for added safety.

Both the wot box and the Unichip fit nicely in the fuse box – at the bottom you can kind of see the waterproof connectors inserted to the coils:

Finished installation:

The voltages had to be adjusted to work with the Dart. Our throttle peaks @ 1.95V, so you have to drop the APP voltage from 3.0 down to 1.6, and the other settings should look like this:


Shifter Linkage Cable Replaced

This was a fun installation!! Burned the crap out of my hand on the downpipe – the front part of my shifter linkage cable broke off. Part # is 68166675AA.

I was trying to race another tuned and bolted Dart – jammed it into third a bit too hard on the third honk, popped the linkage right off! Put it back, but it kept falling off, so I ordered another one. Can’t wait for this scar.


Under the Hood LEDs and Spinning Subwoofer Grill Switch

Getting things wrapped up for the big Midwest Dart meet – Just a few last thread updates, before I close up this build thread. Some minor updates – I wired in a 3-way switch in the trunk. This powers the spinning subwoofer grill, LEDs in the trunk, and the orange El Wire outlining the subwoofer. I can help if anyone wants to do this – the switch is on-off-on. The first on is constant (for car shows, etc) the off is, well, off; the (lower) on is switched ignition power.

Finally, since I got the hood, there is a vent, so I can show light through it. I put the white engine lights on a separate switch with constant power, so I can turn these on from inside the engine bay.



New hood with demon eyes, hash stripes removed: