Ghost Flames on hood

When I bought the carbon fiber hood in 2016, it was in perfect condition from another Dart owner in Wisconsin. I drove the hood home and installed it, and one week later showed up to Midwest Chicago, only to find a large crack in the front of the hood.

I later added hood pins, but the damage was already done. I had it sanded and re-clear-coated, however, the damage went down into the carbon fiber fabric and couldn’t be fully eliminated.

I came up with an idea to cover the damage, and to make the car look a bit cooler, even though it is a pretty subtle modification. First of all, I did some research and looked up some flame patterns, and decided on a theme that I liked, and something that would work for my application.

I started with thin 1/8″ pin striping tape and laid out the pattern of the flames, being careful to cover all of the cracked areas. The tape peels up fairly easily to allow fixes and manipulation of the design.

Then I filled in the rest of the space with 1″ painters tape.

Time to spray the plastidip – I used 10 coats.

It did not peel perfectly, and did not look great until I touched it up. This was right after the tape was pulled off:

After everything was peeled, I used some Xylene and cotton swabs to carefully clean up the edges of the dip, where it started to stick to the tape. The xylene melts and re-activates the dip so you can fix peels, and smooth out edges. You can also “melt” down the corners and edges a bit to make it cleaner looking and stick better.

Final product: (in the rain)

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Window Vents-discontinued

You can’t roll down your windows at the track, so… put these in your windows to cool down and look super HOT!  These are built to order, so fill out the form at the bottom, and we will respond via email for more information and a quote.

Due to the fitment complexity of this product, it is no longer available as a completed part. We will sell a DIY kit that includes two cut pieces of alumalite with the four holes drilled. You would be responsible for sanding the edges to fit the window perfectly.

A cheap soldering iron can be used to melt the inside plastic to allow the window to fit inside the channel. The vents slide into the space where the glass window inserts.

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MDS Intakes for the 2.0 and 2.4 Engines

Custom 3″ cold air intake for the 2.0L and 2.4L Dodge Dart models. Unrestricted airflow, cooler, fresher air, better engine performance, and a fresh look in your engine bay. This kit includes 3″ aluminum pipe, 3″ 4-ply silicon couplers, stainless steel T-bolt clamps, 6×6″ cone filter, and connections for the temperature sensor and PCV hose.

Comparable to name brand intakes.

Can choose from a choice of red, black, or blue couplers.

Please define what color the pipes should be and your choice of coupler color in comments when purchasing.

 
*Will ship with well defined instructions & diagrams.
 
 
$235.00
+$20.00 shipping

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Headlights V4, Rust Fix, Ignition Coils, Sequential Turn Signals, Shifter

Many things happened at once, as once the front end is apart, it makes sense to add everything at one time, especially if you have other transportation available. The weather has been nice, so my bicycle has been seeing some love during this transition.

First up, the 4H-Tech short-shifter kit, used under the hood connected to the transmission. It works great with the MPX STS and solid bushings – You wouldn’t believe how tight the shifts are – it’s like sex! Installation is pretty simple, but the difficult part is connecting the tiny metal pin clip to secure the new linkage. I recommend using a pair of long needle nosed pilers to hold and attach the clip. The website is visible in the picture below:Untitled

I wanted this design I made for my shifter – Cravenspeed.com will custom print the top portion of their knob, so I made this happen:Untitled UntitledUntitledUntitled

Plasti dipped the back portion of the my stripe – what used to be the Horse-Drawn Records logo, as well as the spoiler that was orange:UntitledUntitled

Upon removing the spoiler, I found the previous genius that installed the spoiler did nothing to seal the hole, or to prevent future rust. By hand, I sanded the tiny portions of rust buildup under the spoiler mounts down to bare metal. I used some rust inhibitor, then cleaned it again and added primer and new orange paint. Also sealed the trunk side, as well.UntitledUntitled UntitledUntitledUntitled

Also painted the rear tow hook orange, and the front one black: Untitled2018

Gloss black roof wrap, using Vvivid vinyl:Untitled

Anyone know where the oil dipstick is?Untitled2018

What’s for dinner? Headlights? Awesome, Dad!! 10 minutes at 220 degrees and BAM!2018201820182018

Color matched eyelids:201820182018

Chicagoland Darts in the house!! #trytokeepup 20182018201820182018201820182018UntitledUntitledUntitledUntitled

Headlights re-assembled:2018Untitled2018Untitled

Finally replaced the factory OEM ignition coils. *tip – If you are patient, you can find these Bosch coils overseas on ebay for $50 each, including shipping if you look around.UntitledUntitled

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Finally, painted black fascia pieces and orange trim, replaced the fog lights with sequential fog lights, brought through the front, then sealed with silicone:UntitledUntitledUntitled

Raw AF! UntitledUntitledUntitledHeadlights V4Headlights V4Headlights V4Untitled

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Wastegate Adjustment

Wastegate was set to 8mm from factory with new replacement Honeywell Garret Turbo.

Blocked off The Claw, dropped wastegate to 6.5mm – boost peaked at 25.5, finally topped out at 26 psi with current Syked tune.

Adjusted wastegate back up to 8mm (stock) and the boost rose to 27 psi, and peaked at 28.5 psi!  Absolute throttle dropped to about 56% on wot – dropping it down to 7.5mm.

PFA

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Adding Modular Lighting under a ground effect, such as lip or splitter

UntitledSeveral people have inquired about adding lights to add-on items, such as front lips, wind splitters, and other bumper or fascia modifications.  There is not a lot of room under there, especially if you are lowered, so here are a few tips to help install, as well as making it easy to install and remove the parts, as needed.

The lights will need 12v+, and will use basic two conductor cable/wire – I recommend using a waterproof connector, so the part can be easily removed.  Here is a connector cut from a headlight assembly:UntitledI added silicone to further waterproof the connector, just in case.  Then I cut a small hole, 3.5″ back from the second fascia bolt from the outside, in order to run the wires:UntitledFrom there, just cut enough wire for the splitter connection, as well as the end that goes in the car and through the fascia.  I already had 12v+ there, so I only needed a few feet to reach my lines:Untitled

At this point, it is time to add your led strips. There is not enough room for anything else.  In addition, if these are damaged, a new set can easily be installed, and they are quite cheap to replace. ($10-20 from ebay)  I cut two strips, one for each side of the hole I drilled:Untitled

The hole lines up with this hole in the under carriage, right in the center of this picture:

Now, you can add the lights using the 3M adhesive, and run the wires up through the hole you created:UntitledUntitled

Now, solder the wires together with your prepared waterproof connector on the top side of the splitter:Untitled

Added silicone to the solder joints:Untitled

With enough slack on the added wire and connectors, the splitter 12V lines can be attached through the hole in the under carriage, then the entire thing can be mounted / unmounted any time you need to do so.Untitled

 

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Rotated Tires, Brisk Spark Plugs relocated to the trash can

Rotated the tires with 79,900 miles.  The two pair are not identical, but the fronts were looking bad.  Also, when I had the electrical short, I decided to pull out the Brisk plugs and throw them away.  Horrible purchase, total garbage spark plugs – they “chugged” at lower RPM, usually in traffic or slowly rolling in gear.  I used them both tuned and stock, as well as with the Unichip – basically the same.

I put the NGKs back on, probably about 78,000 miles – so they have about 15,000 miles on them, so far.

I’m still looking into better tires, but keeping these for now.  Going to try and beat my 7.16 0-60 MPH pull.  I will try setting the wot box launch lower – to 3200 RPM.

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Methanol / Water Injection, Boost Leak Fixes, & Solenoid Installation

First of all, if you are confused about methanol injection, then you should read these articles:

http://speed.academy/methanol-injection-explained-power-gains/
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-boost-engine-power-with-water-methanol-injection/
http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/engine/get-schooled-water-methanol-injection-101/

Meth injection provides knock protection, cools the engine intake manifold, and allows for more aggressive timing in a tune.  It can also add horsepower by allowing more boost pressure, prevent heat soak, steam clean your pistons, and keeps the turbo running at peak performance.

This installation was done with the kit from Eurocompulsion / HPSI, but is packaged with parts from DevilsOwn – it is a really nice kit.  Mine may be slightly different, as I bought it used and made a few changes.

Here is the kit.
water meth kit

The first thing I did was mapped everything out –  I chose to mount the tank and relay in the trunk, and put the rest under the hood.  I already had constant power in the trunk for my sound amplifier, and there was also a ignition switched line to the trunk, used for remote power to switch the amp on with the ignition.  (These installations can be found here.)

Before I installed anything, I had to prep the tank.  The black part is a tank empty sensor – the plastic part floats, and when the levels drops, it completes the circuit.  This can be drilled near the bottom of the tank, and the wires are run to a small red LED in my dash.  The red and black thing is the check valve – this is installed as close as possible to the nozzle on the IC pipe.

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This picture shows the spray nozzle that I tapped into the cold side IC pipe.  I suggest removing the part, drilling it, and then clean out all of the shavings 100%.  The instructions specify the hole size, as well as the size to tap the threads.

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These lines easily run along the drivers door liner, underneath the plastic tray inside – there is plenty of room, and then into the truck.  I used a distributor block for the constant power, mounted to the trunk.  Here is the wiring diagram for the meth kit – I had to later change a couple of things to implement the solenoid valve for the factory boost leak.

Boost retainer valve
The relay shows it needs constant and switched power, however, when I added the powered solenoid, it caused the pump to run constantly.  It took me a minute to figure it out – The added solenoid closes the circuit, so I had to later modify the diagram above.  BOTH PIN 30 AND PIN 86 OF THE RELAY MUST BE CONNECTED TO CONSTANT POWER.

It works fine if you just install the meth, but the boost leak needs this change, if you want the solenoid powered from the pressure sensor.

In the trunk, the relay connects to ground, and there are easy grounding screws behind the carpet – I mounted mine on the left side, and cut out the floor liner.  This way, I can still access the spare tire, and under the carpet without moving the tank.  I also had to cut a small slit behind the tank to allow the wires to pass through behind the tank unnoticed.

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Cleaned up:Untitled

All of the connections were soldered and waterproofed, using liquid electrical tape.  Two pins went to power through the distribution block, and one line directly to the pump (very short line) and then only one line needs to run under the car, all the way up to the engine bay.  This line connects pin 85 and the pressure switch.  You’ll want to connect this to the “NO” pin, or “normally open.”  This line will also connect to one of the pins on the solenoid, also in the engine bay.  It doesn’t matter which pin – it is easiest to crimp both wires together to the connector on the pressure sensor, and then waterproof it.

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You do not need to use the NC (normally closed) tab on the pressure sensor for this application.  You can see the brass T I’ve added, to give boost pressure to the boost gauge and the pressure sensor above.

Boost retainer valve

This is the T that came with the kit – perhaps it works in the Abarth, but it wasn’t the correct size(s) for my installation: Untitled

Use some heavy wire when you run the line underneath the car.  There is plenty to tie wrap it up to, to keep everything secure.  The line is also fused, to be safe. Ground the remaining pin from the pressure switch under the hood – there is an easy one next to the fuse box.

The pressure switch is connected to your throttlebody spacer (if you have one) or teed into the line for your boost gauge, if different.  This has a thumb dial to adjust – set it to about 12-14 psi.  I am spraying with nozzle #2, or 350 ml/minute, which is equal to 5.55 US gallons per hour.  This can be adjusted to your taste and climate.

The second line in the pressure switch goes to ground, and can be purchased on ebay – I found it relatively cheap here.  The second line of the solenoid goes directly to the battery, or constant power.

Use this search term in ebay if the listing goes away: “1/4 inch NORMALLY OPEN 12V DC VDC Brass Solenoid Valve NPT”  Then I purchased two 1/4″ NPT to barb connectors from home depot, and inserted this solenoid between the cold side IC Pipe and the intake.
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The evap system also tees into this line, so you’ll want to make sure you insert it before the T, or on the driver’s side.  The direction of the valve is going out of the IC pipe, towards the intake.

boost leak routing

I suggest you review this post by Greg from EC for more info.

The second factory boost leak was discovered by my good friend, Josh Cook ( @Jmcook321 on the .org ) tinkering with his engine.  When he ran a boost leak test, he heard air rushing out of the separator.  For $6.00 on Amazon, you can get a one way check valve that blocks this flow, in the line where my oil catch can is located, between the PCV and the intake manifold.  (Search 10mm 3/8″ check valve.) I don’t have the numbers, but it is likely small gains on the low end RPM, and it is a very easy fix.

check valve 3check valve 1

The arrow below shows the direction of the valve – all you have to do is cut the line, and insert this check valve – super easy!check valve 2

The methanol mixture I use is from Walmart – the winter washer fluid.  Most winter washer fluid is about 33% methanol – If you want 50/50 blend, you have to purchase “Boost Juice.”  The stuff at Walmart is posted as $2.00 per bottle, but when I checked out, it rang as $0.50 per bottle – this may have been an error, but still a ton cheaper than the boost juice.

boost juice

This is what EC recommends:Untitled

Meth party:Untitled
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Completed Installation:Untitled

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Modification List (mods, part list)

Appearance Mods:

AVS Vent Shades

Blacked Out Tail Lights (VHT night shades)

Blind Spot Mirrors (generic, Auto Zone)

Carbon Fiber Door Pillars, Interior (hand wrapped)

Carbon Fiber 3rd Party Heated Driver’s Seat

Ceiling Interior Logo

Dartlene Front Wind Splitter, Side Skirts and Rear Diffuser

De-badged

Demon Eyes and Starry Night Halo Headlights

Dragon Eyes Headlight Tint with Carbon Fiber Eyelids

DRL LED Switchbacks

Eagle Eyes Black Headlights

Grill Installation with LEDs

HIDs (Xenon-Vision H11 bulbs)

Knight Rider LEDs & Strobe Lights (ebay)

LED Reverse / Backup Lights

Mud flaps (Rally Armor)

Orange Painted Calipers

Painted Engine Bay, Door Handles, HDP Logo on fuse cover

Plastic Dip door handles, front fascia

Rear Diffuser

Sirius LED White/Amber Fog Lights

Spoiler

Steering wheel HDP badge 

Third Brake Light HDP logo

Tow Hook – front & rear

Trunk Lettering

Underbody Multicolor LEDs

Vinyl Graphics – racing stripes, hash marks, company logo, record label logo

Wheel Pin-striping

Window Tint 35%/5%/5%

 

 

Electronics:

1/0 AWG Ground Wire (engine bay grounds)

10” Subwoofer & Custom Enclosure

Bullz Audio Distribution Block (2)

Hifonics HFXR 2 or 3 way Crossover (for Subwoofer)

Kicker 41KSC354 3.5″ 2-way Dash Speakers

Polk DB691 3-way 6X9″ Speakers (4)

Raizin Voltage Stabilizer & grounding kit

Remote Start

Schoche Line out convertor & Spinning Subwoofer grill

Unichip Q4 with custom tune(s) Syked ECU Custom Tune

 

 

Engine & Performance Mods:

Brisk Racing Spark Plugs

CDV Delete

Deyeme Rear Engine Mount

DRP Intercooler Pipes (hot & cold side)

Electronic Cutout Exhaust with Custom 2.5” Midpipe

Forge BOV

GFB DV+

HDG Performance Front Mount Intercooler (28″ X 7″ X 2.5”)

HPSI RAM Air intake System

James Dean Muffler 2.5″ Straight Stainless Steel Split Exhaust

 

Jegs Air/Oil Separator

K & N Apollo / Typhoon Ram Air / Cold Air Intake

Metal Shifter Link Clips

MPX Ported Throttle Body

Road Race Motorsports High-Flow Catted Downpipe & Lightweight Pulley

 

 

Interior Mods:

Halo ProSport Boost Gauge

Momo Shift Knob with Chameleon Accent

MPX Short Throw Shifter & Base Bushings

Multi-Color Floating Island Bezel

Orange Ice Scrapper

Pedal Kit (custom with clutch spacer)

Phone Mount

Pin-striping

Redline Leather Shift Boot

Ultra-Gauge

Under dash/seat LED lighting & Strobe

 

 

Wheels & Suspension:

Eibach Pro Line Lowering Springs

Progress Rear Sway Bar

Sickspeed Spiked Lugs with Conversion

TSW Bathurst Wheels in gunmetal black – 19 x 8

Tires 235/19/8 with custom lettering

Tow Hooks (2) – generic/eBay neo chrome

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Turbo Surge / GFB DV+ and Forge BOV Issues – Solved!

Forge BOV mod (barely) – Since I had issues running both the GFB DV+ and the Forge BOV together, I wanted to experiment. I got the turbo boost leak fixed, so I thought I could give it another shot. I took the 6 holes on the Forge Plate and drilled them all out larger. I then drilled another single hole on the other side. I was going to file out the inside, but I realized that the GFB doesn’t even go into the Forge, it only sites up against it.

Sounds like turbo surging, others thought it was sticking, audio/video:

Point is – this worked! If anyone has had the issue previously, then give this a shot:

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