Window Vents-discontinued

You can’t roll down your windows at the track, so… put these in your windows to cool down and look super HOT!  These are built to order, so fill out the form at the bottom, and we will respond via email for more information and a quote.

Due to the fitment complexity of this product, it is no longer available as a completed part. We will sell a DIY kit that includes two cut pieces of alumalite with the four holes drilled. You would be responsible for sanding the edges to fit the window perfectly.

A cheap soldering iron can be used to melt the inside plastic to allow the window to fit inside the channel. The vents slide into the space where the glass window inserts.

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MDS Intakes for the 2.0 and 2.4 Engines

Custom 3″ cold air intake for the 2.0L and 2.4L Dodge Dart models. Unrestricted airflow, cooler, fresher air, better engine performance, and a fresh look in your engine bay. This kit includes 3″ aluminum pipe, 3″ 4-ply silicon couplers, stainless steel T-bolt clamps, 6×6″ cone filter, and connections for the temperature sensor and PCV hose.

Comparable to name brand intakes.

Can choose from a choice of red, black, or blue couplers.

Please define what color the pipes should be and your choice of coupler color in comments when purchasing.

 
*Will ship with well defined instructions & diagrams.
 
 
$235.00
+$20.00 shipping

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Headlights V4, Rust Fix, Ignition Coils, Sequential Turn Signals, Shifter

Many things happened at once, as once the front end is apart, it makes sense to add everything at one time, especially if you have other transportation available. The weather has been nice, so my bicycle has been seeing some love during this transition.

First up, the 4H-Tech short-shifter kit, used under the hood connected to the transmission. It works great with the MPX STS and solid bushings – You wouldn’t believe how tight the shifts are – it’s like sex! Installation is pretty simple, but the difficult part is connecting the tiny metal pin clip to secure the new linkage. I recommend using a pair of long needle nosed pilers to hold and attach the clip. The website is visible in the picture below:Untitled

I wanted this design I made for my shifter – Cravenspeed.com will custom print the top portion of their knob, so I made this happen:Untitled UntitledUntitledUntitled

Plasti dipped the back portion of the my stripe – what used to be the Horse-Drawn Records logo, as well as the spoiler that was orange:UntitledUntitled

Upon removing the spoiler, I found the previous genius that installed the spoiler did nothing to seal the hole, or to prevent future rust. By hand, I sanded the tiny portions of rust buildup under the spoiler mounts down to bare metal. I used some rust inhibitor, then cleaned it again and added primer and new orange paint. Also sealed the trunk side, as well.UntitledUntitled UntitledUntitledUntitled

Also painted the rear tow hook orange, and the front one black: Untitled2018

Gloss black roof wrap, using Vvivid vinyl:Untitled

Anyone know where the oil dipstick is?Untitled2018

What’s for dinner? Headlights? Awesome, Dad!! 10 minutes at 220 degrees and BAM!2018201820182018

Color matched eyelids:201820182018

Chicagoland Darts in the house!! #trytokeepup 20182018201820182018201820182018UntitledUntitledUntitledUntitled

Headlights re-assembled:2018Untitled2018Untitled

Finally replaced the factory OEM ignition coils. *tip – If you are patient, you can find these Bosch coils overseas on ebay for $50 each, including shipping if you look around.UntitledUntitled

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Finally, painted black fascia pieces and orange trim, replaced the fog lights with sequential fog lights, brought through the front, then sealed with silicone:UntitledUntitledUntitled

Raw AF! UntitledUntitledUntitledHeadlights V4Headlights V4Headlights V4Untitled

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Methanol / Water Injection, Boost Leak Fixes, & Solenoid Installation

First of all, if you are confused about methanol injection, then you should read these articles:

http://speed.academy/methanol-injection-explained-power-gains/
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-boost-engine-power-with-water-methanol-injection/
http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/engine/get-schooled-water-methanol-injection-101/

Meth injection provides knock protection, cools the engine intake manifold, and allows for more aggressive timing in a tune.  It can also add horsepower by allowing more boost pressure, prevent heat soak, steam clean your pistons, and keeps the turbo running at peak performance.

This installation was done with the kit from Eurocompulsion / HPSI, but is packaged with parts from DevilsOwn – it is a really nice kit.  Mine may be slightly different, as I bought it used and made a few changes.

Here is the kit.
water meth kit

The first thing I did was mapped everything out –  I chose to mount the tank and relay in the trunk, and put the rest under the hood.  I already had constant power in the trunk for my sound amplifier, and there was also a ignition switched line to the trunk, used for remote power to switch the amp on with the ignition.  (These installations can be found here.)

Before I installed anything, I had to prep the tank.  The black part is a tank empty sensor – the plastic part floats, and when the levels drops, it completes the circuit.  This can be drilled near the bottom of the tank, and the wires are run to a small red LED in my dash.  The red and black thing is the check valve – this is installed as close as possible to the nozzle on the IC pipe.

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This picture shows the spray nozzle that I tapped into the cold side IC pipe.  I suggest removing the part, drilling it, and then clean out all of the shavings 100%.  The instructions specify the hole size, as well as the size to tap the threads.

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These lines easily run along the drivers door liner, underneath the plastic tray inside – there is plenty of room, and then into the truck.  I used a distributor block for the constant power, mounted to the trunk.  Here is the wiring diagram for the meth kit – I had to later change a couple of things to implement the solenoid valve for the factory boost leak.

Boost retainer valve
The relay shows it needs constant and switched power, however, when I added the powered solenoid, it caused the pump to run constantly.  It took me a minute to figure it out – The added solenoid closes the circuit, so I had to later modify the diagram above.  BOTH PIN 30 AND PIN 86 OF THE RELAY MUST BE CONNECTED TO CONSTANT POWER.

It works fine if you just install the meth, but the boost leak needs this change, if you want the solenoid powered from the pressure sensor.

In the trunk, the relay connects to ground, and there are easy grounding screws behind the carpet – I mounted mine on the left side, and cut out the floor liner.  This way, I can still access the spare tire, and under the carpet without moving the tank.  I also had to cut a small slit behind the tank to allow the wires to pass through behind the tank unnoticed.

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Cleaned up:Untitled

All of the connections were soldered and waterproofed, using liquid electrical tape.  Two pins went to power through the distribution block, and one line directly to the pump (very short line) and then only one line needs to run under the car, all the way up to the engine bay.  This line connects pin 85 and the pressure switch.  You’ll want to connect this to the “NO” pin, or “normally open.”  This line will also connect to one of the pins on the solenoid, also in the engine bay.  It doesn’t matter which pin – it is easiest to crimp both wires together to the connector on the pressure sensor, and then waterproof it.

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You do not need to use the NC (normally closed) tab on the pressure sensor for this application.  You can see the brass T I’ve added, to give boost pressure to the boost gauge and the pressure sensor above.

Boost retainer valve

This is the T that came with the kit – perhaps it works in the Abarth, but it wasn’t the correct size(s) for my installation: Untitled

Use some heavy wire when you run the line underneath the car.  There is plenty to tie wrap it up to, to keep everything secure.  The line is also fused, to be safe. Ground the remaining pin from the pressure switch under the hood – there is an easy one next to the fuse box.

The pressure switch is connected to your throttlebody spacer (if you have one) or teed into the line for your boost gauge, if different.  This has a thumb dial to adjust – set it to about 12-14 psi.  I am spraying with nozzle #2, or 350 ml/minute, which is equal to 5.55 US gallons per hour.  This can be adjusted to your taste and climate.

The second line in the pressure switch goes to ground, and can be purchased on ebay – I found it relatively cheap here.  The second line of the solenoid goes directly to the battery, or constant power.

Use this search term in ebay if the listing goes away: “1/4 inch NORMALLY OPEN 12V DC VDC Brass Solenoid Valve NPT”  Then I purchased two 1/4″ NPT to barb connectors from home depot, and inserted this solenoid between the cold side IC Pipe and the intake.
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The evap system also tees into this line, so you’ll want to make sure you insert it before the T, or on the driver’s side.  The direction of the valve is going out of the IC pipe, towards the intake.

boost leak routing

I suggest you review this post by Greg from EC for more info.

The second factory boost leak was discovered by my good friend, Josh Cook ( @Jmcook321 on the .org ) tinkering with his engine.  When he ran a boost leak test, he heard air rushing out of the separator.  For $6.00 on Amazon, you can get a one way check valve that blocks this flow, in the line where my oil catch can is located, between the PCV and the intake manifold.  (Search 10mm 3/8″ check valve.) I don’t have the numbers, but it is likely small gains on the low end RPM, and it is a very easy fix.

check valve 3check valve 1

The arrow below shows the direction of the valve – all you have to do is cut the line, and insert this check valve – super easy!check valve 2

The methanol mixture I use is from Walmart – the winter washer fluid.  Most winter washer fluid is about 33% methanol – If you want 50/50 blend, you have to purchase “Boost Juice.”  The stuff at Walmart is posted as $2.00 per bottle, but when I checked out, it rang as $0.50 per bottle – this may have been an error, but still a ton cheaper than the boost juice.

boost juice

This is what EC recommends:Untitled

Meth party:Untitled
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Completed Installation:Untitled

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Modification List (mods, part list)

Appearance Mods:

AVS Vent Shades

Blacked Out Tail Lights (VHT night shades)

Blind Spot Mirrors (generic, Auto Zone)

Carbon Fiber Door Pillars, Interior (hand wrapped)

Carbon Fiber 3rd Party Heated Driver’s Seat

Ceiling Interior Logo

Dartlene Front Wind Splitter, Side Skirts and Rear Diffuser

De-badged

Demon Eyes and Starry Night Halo Headlights

Dragon Eyes Headlight Tint with Carbon Fiber Eyelids

DRL LED Switchbacks

Eagle Eyes Black Headlights

Grill Installation with LEDs

HIDs (Xenon-Vision H11 bulbs)

Knight Rider LEDs & Strobe Lights (ebay)

LED Reverse / Backup Lights

Mud flaps (Rally Armor)

Orange Painted Calipers

Painted Engine Bay, Door Handles, HDP Logo on fuse cover

Plastic Dip door handles, front fascia

Rear Diffuser

Sirius LED White/Amber Fog Lights

Spoiler

Steering wheel HDP badge 

Third Brake Light HDP logo

Tow Hook – front & rear

Trunk Lettering

Underbody Multicolor LEDs

Vinyl Graphics – racing stripes, hash marks, company logo, record label logo

Wheel Pin-striping

Window Tint 35%/5%/5%

 

 

Electronics:

1/0 AWG Ground Wire (engine bay grounds)

10” Subwoofer & Custom Enclosure

Bullz Audio Distribution Block (2)

Hifonics HFXR 2 or 3 way Crossover (for Subwoofer)

Kicker 41KSC354 3.5″ 2-way Dash Speakers

Polk DB691 3-way 6X9″ Speakers (4)

Raizin Voltage Stabilizer & grounding kit

Remote Start

Schoche Line out convertor & Spinning Subwoofer grill

Unichip Q4 with custom tune(s) Syked ECU Custom Tune

 

 

Engine & Performance Mods:

Brisk Racing Spark Plugs

CDV Delete

Deyeme Rear Engine Mount

DRP Intercooler Pipes (hot & cold side)

Electronic Cutout Exhaust with Custom 2.5” Midpipe

Forge BOV

GFB DV+

HDG Performance Front Mount Intercooler (28″ X 7″ X 2.5”)

HPSI RAM Air intake System

James Dean Muffler 2.5″ Straight Stainless Steel Split Exhaust

 

Jegs Air/Oil Separator

K & N Apollo / Typhoon Ram Air / Cold Air Intake

Metal Shifter Link Clips

MPX Ported Throttle Body

Road Race Motorsports High-Flow Catted Downpipe & Lightweight Pulley

 

 

Interior Mods:

Halo ProSport Boost Gauge

Momo Shift Knob with Chameleon Accent

MPX Short Throw Shifter & Base Bushings

Multi-Color Floating Island Bezel

Orange Ice Scrapper

Pedal Kit (custom with clutch spacer)

Phone Mount

Pin-striping

Redline Leather Shift Boot

Ultra-Gauge

Under dash/seat LED lighting & Strobe

 

 

Wheels & Suspension:

Eibach Pro Line Lowering Springs

Progress Rear Sway Bar

Sickspeed Spiked Lugs with Conversion

TSW Bathurst Wheels in gunmetal black – 19 x 8

Tires 235/19/8 with custom lettering

Tow Hooks (2) – generic/eBay neo chrome

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High Decibel Air Horn

I installed a twin tone, 139 decibel air horn under the hood, right near the front grill, facing outward.  Used in conjunction with the stock horn, this thing is really LOUD!  The horn was wired through a relay, installed under the hood, and still runs off of 12v power.  I put a red illuminated switch, just to the left of the shifter, and I wired it to stay illuminated while the car is running.

The horn is Stebel Nautilus Compact Mini Air Horn.

Wiring Instructions:20160615_200117 Pinout: 20160615_195819

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Fender Flares

I’ve received numerous requests on these.  They are made from ABS plastic, but have a carbon fiber “look” to them, and can be molded with heat.  I take the ABS and bend them to shape, so they will fit the Dart wheel wells, giving it a small flared fender look.  A set of four of these is $49.00, and they are made to order.  Please allow time for your product to receive the attention that it deserves! 20160605_143151 20160605_143201 Untitled Untitled Hood pins

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Dartlene Side Skirts

Mopar makes the only side skirts available for this car, but we wanted something a bit more aggressive, to match the front and rear.  We re-designed the side skirts to match the front splitter and rear diffuser, using the same industrial strength 6mm alumalite! These look amazing, and are super durable!

The kit is $199.00, plus shipping, and local pickup is always available. Please use the contact page for questions and inquires.

Kit includes:
2 alumalite side skirts, in gloss black with molding and subtle “winglets”
Nuts, bolts and washers to assemble the winglets
Self-tapping screws to attach the skirt

The unit is attached using the supplied screws to the underside of your rocker panel – installation only requires a floor jack and a screw gun.

These are mounted fairly aggressive, as they stick out a bit, but there is room to adjust that positioning.  The front is an angle, which matches the body of the car, and allows these to mount, regardless if you have mud flaps installed.

Please keep in mind, these have to be ordered, as they are not in stock – It may take a little time for shipping and setup.  Thanks for shopping @ the Horse! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Use the form below to purchase.  Send us your PayPal email and shipping address and we will send you an invoice.

*Installation Instructions can be found here.


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Hood Pins Installed (on carbon fiber hood)

Hood Pins Installed – A local car tech suggested to keep my new carbon fiber hood looking good for years to come, I should secure it with hood pins. This will keep it from cracking over time, and a safety net from the hood latch separating from the carbon and snapping up during extreme driving. Less than a week later, the clearcoat on the CF started to get a crack near the hood latch. I immediately ordered hood pins, including gaskets, so no metal would be touching the carb fiber. The hood needs to be re-clear coated in 1-2 years, so no biggie, but I wanted to ensure it stays this way.

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