Electric Exhaust Cutout and Custom Midpipe / B-pipe

Exhaust cutout installed today!  This is an electric cutout, that dumps straight out of my down pipe, and then to a custom 2.5″ midpipe / B-pipe.  Switch is installed next to shifter.Name: ForumRunner_20160606_102413.png Views: 112 Size: 406.7 KB

I had a custom 2.5″ B-pipe created, and welded on a cutout, right after the downpipe. I installed the switch inside, near the shifter, but out of the way of the seat. Only takes a second to open and close – sounds awesome! It moves the power band up, so the turbo kicks in smoother, and screams up top. There is a little bit of low end torque lost, similar to those with a 3″ exhaust, but makes it up above that. I wish the pics were a bit better, but whatever. It exits out of the front hole / door in the underbody aero panel. It was open for over a full tank of gas, no issues. I was going to add a tip, but it’s too low.
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I cut this out for a tip, but never installed it. #lowlife  The above hole was later cut a bit larger, as I sometimes shoot flames!
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This is how I soldered the switch. This switch is a momentary on/off/on switch. Forward is open, back is piped exhaust, tied to ignition switched power.
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I purchased the electric cutout kit from ebay, and it was about $85.  Here is something similar.  It is a basic 2.5″ cutout, that includes cutout, switch, wire, gaskets, y-pipe, clamp, dump, and hardware.  The midpipe is fine, running closed, for emissions in IL.  The high flow downpipe, however, was not, and has to be removed every two years to pass emissions.

Here is the final installation pic – It is the silver switch, to the left of the gear shifter:20161010_224301

No codes, or issues, however, if you run the cutout open for a long time, especially under WOT, you may get an error for rear O2, although it hardly comes on for me.  I ran her on the dunk, and open and closed was very close, although open gained 2-3 more whp.

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