WOT BOX INSTALLATION HOW-TO: Turbo Dart

What is a wot box? What does it do? Why?

WOT Box – N2MB Racing
Launch Control
Launch Control – what is it?
Anti-lag System

Answer: Why not?

Enough with the reading, here we go:

First of all, I used to run a Unichip Q4, which used a harness that connects to the PCM, basically inserting itself between the PCM and the car. This made my install quite easy, as I could tap into all of the needed wires from within my harness, without any cutting, splicing, or modifying of the factory wires, except for one. Below is the cryptic instructions I received from their customer service, upon asking if it would work. There were mixed reviews on what would work, what wouldn’t work, and how to do it, as I reached out to several people who had done it before on other social media sites, and I now know the full details of this box.

The colors in the chart refer to the colors on the wot box. The one thing that may be different is the coil output wire, which may be black or orange, depending on the revision harness you receive. This is the basic pinouts from their website:

Below are the pinouts for both PCM connectors – one is slightly larger than the other, so they are easy to tell apart.  You will need to access both:
Dart PCM pinouts C1 connector

Dart PCD pinouts C2 connector

All of the wires tap into the lines in question, except for the ignition coils, which I’ll get to in a minute.  You simply need to tap into the the above wires, with the exception of the coils, in which the wot box is inserted into the path.  Skip the next paragraph if you are comfortable tapping off of electrical wiring, or using

I used a technique where I scrape the top layer off of one side of a wire, using a razor blade. You run the blade carefully down the side of the wire, basically stripping one side of the wire. You can make several passes to give you 1/4″ or so of bare wire, such as this (the actual wire won’t break so easily, as the crappy wire in the pic did – doesn’t matter, though, as the solder will solidify it) I did this quickly for these pics, but it’s easy to get perfect with no broken wires, with a little practice. (Yes, you can just use wire taps, but I make every connection under my hood waterproof, and wire taps look like sh!t) Next, add a small amount of solder flux to the exposed wire. Then, add your solder to the bare wire. This is very easy using the flux ,as it forces the solder to melt away any hanging rubber and seal perfectly to the wire:

The connection is then covered with liquid electrical tape:

Be sure to tin the new wire as well, so when you make the connection they bond. If wires are soldered properly, the bond will be far stronger than the wire.

We need to tap into the wires below:
(PCM Wire Harnesses)
Green clutch large connector pin 84 (light green/orange)
Black ground pin 2 large connector (black)
Blue accelerator pedal pin 83 large connector (white/brown)
Yellow injectors pin 3 small connector (blue/black)

The ignition coil power splice (RED / ORANGE) is to all the coils. The  WOT Box needs to be able to cut power to all the coils.  You can find this on the back on the fuse block – Fuse #16 (15 AMP) – brown/yellow wire.  This is also a dark blue/red wire at Coil #1, pin #2.  I do not recommend running bare wire directly over the engine block to connect at this end, it is better to do it at the fuse block.  If you use my method, you can remove the Wot Box at any time in 60 seconds!

The last part of the N2MB pinout instructions above, in red, is very cryptic. This is what it means – you need to interrupt power to all 4 ignition coils at once, by inserting the wot box in this line – out to the box, from the box back to the line.  Some users spliced into the four wires at the engine block, but this seems like trouble, to me. Instead, there is a brown/yellow wire coming directly out of Fuse #16 in the engine bay. If you pull the fuse block up a bit, you can get to this wire and cut it. I went the extra step, and soldered a waterproof connector here: wot box coil connectors

In other words: “Cut the brown/yellow wire in half, the piece going into the fuse gets wired to the RED wire on the wot box so it supplies 12V to the WOT box, and the other part of the cut wire goes towards the coils, so the orange wire goes there, allowing the WOT box to turn ON/OFF power to the coils.”

This way, the whole thing can be quickly removed. When not in use, the male/female connectors complete the circuit as usual. When they are plugged into the lines to the wot box, it gives the wot box power, and completes the circuit. This was a bit of extra work, but makes for a clean installation, and can be removed to repair, go to the dealership, etc. The red line goes to the fuse, which gives the box 12V+ power, the orange (or 2nd black) goes out to the four coils. You can confirm this with a multi-meter.

These are the waterproof connectors, and I also added liquid electrical tape to every connection, for added safety.

Both the wot box and the Unichip fit nicely in the fuse box – at the bottom you can kind of see the waterproof connectors inserted to the coils:

Finished installation:

The voltages had to be adjusted to work with the Dart. Our throttle peaks @ 1.95V, so you have to drop the APP voltage from 3.0 down to 1.6, and the other settings should look like this:

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13 thoughts on “WOT BOX INSTALLATION HOW-TO: Turbo Dart”

  1. Thanks for taking the time to make this how-to. I’m helping a friend install this WOT box in his Dart 1.4. Unfortunately, I am used to working on older cards, mid 90’s fords to be exact.

    We were able to splice the green, yellow, and blue wires in at the computer harness on the firewall, now we’re having trouble understanding the directions for the other wires. I was able to locate the brown/yellow wire coming out of Fuse #16 but I’m not clear on your instructions when it comes to that.

    “The red line goes to the fues, which gives the box 12V+ power, the orange (or 2nd black) goes out to the four coils. You can confirm this with a multi-meter.”

    Can you help me understand what I need to do at the fuse box? I know the black wire will be going to ground, but where, exactly, do I splice in the red and orange wires? One one side of the fuse there is a large white/red wire, and on the other side there is a brown/yellow wire.

    1. I’ve updated the post this morning with a few more pics, and more lines of description. That is about as clear as I can be with the wiring – it inserts in that line.

  2. Thanks for the update.. I racked my brain all night, then it dawned on me… Cut the brown/yellow wire in half, the piece going into the fuse gets wired to the RED wire on the wot box so it supplies 12V to the WOT box, and the other part of the cut wire goes towards the coils, so the orange wire goes there, allowing the WOT box to turn ON/OFF power to the coils.

    It dawned on me the purpose of the device is to turn off the coils, so the wot box is placed INLINE on that circuit so it can control the coils.

  3. We got the WOT programmed, but the car was in limp mode he said, he took it to advanced to read/clear codes.

  4. Hi! I install this wot box in my the dodge dart 2013 but the 2 step launch control doesn’t work. Can you help me please? If I put a rev limiter with my computer it’s work on my car and hold it at the RPM I set. So I think I soldered correctly the red and the orange wire with the brown/yellow wire from the fuse box. Do you know what it could be? Why the two-step launch doesn’t work?

    1. Post screenshots of your settings:

      Photo #1: With the key on, engine off, push the gas and clutch pedals to the floor. With the gas pedal down and clutch down, click read in the software and take a photo of the results. Be sure to capture the entire software screen. The vehicle snapshot should show DN in the box to the right of the Clutch voltage and the TPS voltage.

      Photo #2: Start the car. With the key on, engine on, click read again with the gas up and clutch up. The vehicle snapshot should show UP for both Clutch and TPS and it should also show the engine idle RPM.

  5. Photo #1 : https://ibb.co/mpfofv
    Photo #2 : https://ibb.co/nztkSa

    In the photo #1 the tps show DOWN when the pedal is up.. So my problem is there. I will chek my blue wire soldered with the white/brown wire on pin 84. It’s really strange because I think I soldered correctly the wires together. The pin 84 (white/brown wire) is next to the pin 83 (light-green/orange wire) and I located him easyly. Does it could be anything else than the connection with the blue wire of the wotbox?

    1. Also – the TPS threshold for the no lift shifting should also be 1.6, not 3. I think the how-to showed incorrectly – it should match the voltage of the pedal down.

      1. Ok thanks! But it will not solve my problem yet? My problem is probably my connection between the blue wire and the white/brown wire?

    2. I think you have the blue and green reversed:
      We need to tap into the wires below:
      (PCM Wire Harnesses)
      Green clutch large connector pin 84 (light green/orange)
      Black ground pin 2 large connector (black)
      Blue accelerator pedal pin 83 large connector (white/brown)
      Yellow injectors pin 3 small connector (blue/black)

      1. Oups sorry I made a mistake. I soldered correctly the green wire with the pin 84 (light-green/orange wire). And i soldered the blue wire with the pin 83 (white/brown wire)

  6. Hey when I click read on the software it will say 5v even though I don’t have my foot on the gas. You know what would cause that?

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