Dartlene Products Instructions
Front Wind Splitter (packing list)
- 26” X 66” alumalite splitter
- 2.5” silver screws (6)
- long black spacers (4)
- short black spacers (2)
- M6 bolt (1)
- support rods (2)
The splitter ships with the white plastic still intact. Start by carefully peeling off the plastic from both sides, if it isn’t already removed. There may be some residual body filler around the corners – no worries! This easily scrapes off, using your fingernail, plastic spudger, or credit card. DO NOT USE SHARP METAL. The splitter will install either side up, so pick the one you like best. Use a black permanent marker to touch up the edges, if needed.
The splitter bolts to the fascia using all 8 holes underneath, as well as the center bolt on the subframe. Start by removing these 9 bolts from the car and set them aside – The Two outermost holes will re-use the factory bolts – It is easiest to start loosely attaching both of these on either side.
The fascia bolts use the 8 metal clips found in this piece (Part #68185904AE) as well as bolting to the subframe with a M5 bolt in the back of the splitter, through the rear center hole on the same piece below:
If you don’t have this piece, you will at least need the clips from it, which are the same as the clips found on the underbody aero panel. Six of these bolts are replaced with our hardware.
The four longest spacers go in the 4 center holes, between the fascia bottom and the top of the splitter. The large 2.5” screws will thread directly into the fascia metal clips. The first time you thread these in, they will be a little tight. Once they start to go in, they loosen up and are easier to thread. I’ve also included washers to put underneath the splitter, with the silver screws.
The two, shorter, black spacers are for the 2 remaining bolt holes. Put all 8 on loosely, then once the spacers are in place with the screws partially threaded, go back and tighten everything up. You can add some thread lock, or even locking washers, for added security, although I haven’t had any issues with them coming loose. Finally, re-use the included M6 center bolt/washer and secure the rear of the splitter to the frame of the car.
The support rods can be installed anywhere in the lower grille. I feel it is easiest to bolt them through the lower fascia mesh, but it can easily be mounted to the fascia as well, which would be more rigid. Keep in mind, the splitter will easily hold itself up, and the support rods are mostly for visual effect. The bolts are 3/16” – I now include toggle bolts – Separate the rod at the top hinge, and slide the toggle bolt through any hole in the lower grill mesh, but not too high up.
Once it runs through and expands, pull against the grill and twist the support rod from the outside to tighten the toggle bolt all the way, so there are no exposed I find it quickest to remove it from the support rod, and use a screwdriver to tighten it down, while pulling outward to stop the toggle bolt from spinning. Then put the support back together and attach it to the splitter – they are adjustable, but keep in mind, they are reverse threaded on each end!
How to Install / Adjust Splitter Support Rods:
If you decide to re-paint it in the future, use gloss black Krylon spray paint over primer. It can be cleaned using regular glass cleaner, or mild soap and water. If there are any imperfections, I recommend using a black Sharpie permanent marker.
Rear Diffuser (packing list)
- black alumalite diffuser fin with hinge (4)
- .75” black screws (4)
- .25” black screws (8)
- extra 3M adhesive
The diffuser fins ship with the white plastic still intact. Start by carefully peeling off the plastic from both sides, if it isn’t already removed. There may be some residual body filler around the corners – no worries! This easily scrapes off, using your fingernail, plastic spudger, or credit card. DO NOT USE SHARP METAL. Use a black permanent marker to touch up the edges, if needed.
These should be evenly spaced along the back – they can go as far out as the dual exhaust tips (if you have them) and in as far as the license plate opening. The top of the fins (end without the hinge) should come up to the top of the (black) fascia piece. It seems that they fit a little differently on each car, so I’ve included some extra adhesive, if needed. If there are any gaps on the pieces against the rear fascia, cut small pieces of adhesive to fill in the spaces. Be sure to remove the red plastic cover over the adhesive where you add the additional pieces. Once everything is lined up, remove the red backing and stick them to the fascia.
Use the short black screws to secure the hinge to the under side of the fascia, and use the longer black screws through the tiny hole at the top of each fin. The fascia is plastic, so there is no need to over tighten the screws.
For a more professional installation, I recommend using black silicone, and removing the adhesive, altogether. This fills in any gaps perfectly, and it can still be removed at a later time. I suggest marking the top and bottom positions with chalk, or tape. Then do one at a time, and clean up the silicone as you go, using a water and dish soap mixture. Give it a few hours to dry.
If you decide to re-paint them in the future, use gloss black Krylon spray paint over primer. They can be cleaned using regular glass cleaner, or mild soap and water. If there are any imperfections, I recommend using a black Sharpie permanent marker.
Side Skirts (packing list)
- ABS side skirt (2)
- metal support bar (4)
- self tapping mounting screws (8)
These can be mounted in a few ways, and can be extruding as far as you would like. Mine are out pretty far, which is a bit more aggressive. I experimented with complex mounting methods, but the thing that works the best is to have a friend help you hold them in place. Use the rear wing and keep it close to the rear wheel. The front angles in, so that it works with mud flaps, and other wheel variations and effects.
Once you have it held in place, use two metal support bars on either side to hold it rigid in place, with the center of the bar up against the car. Then use a drill to install the self tapping screws to the bottom of the car. Be sure not to drill into anything important, such as your finger!
Good luck, and send us some pics!
Eric Yoder & Dartlene Orangina